Chilling out in Chumphon

[PeteC]

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/travel/ ... 76362.html

Chilling out in Chumphon
Sirin P Wongpanit
Special to The Nation February 22, 2012 1:00 am

The sleepy seaside southern province is perfect for holidaymakers wanting little else than serenity and sumptuous food (Photo at link)

A small province wedged between Prachuap Khiri Khan to the north and Surat Thani to the south, Chumphon faces a tourism dilemma. That's particularly true of its provincial seat, Chumphon town which, at 500 kilometres from Bangkok, is considered too far for a weekend getaway and while travellers may pull in for a night on their way to popular destinations like Phuket or Krabi, most holidaymakers tend to pass straight through. The result is that this province remains largely undisturbed though that makes it heaven for anyone wanting to far away from the madding crowd.

Back in the days when Thailand's trains could not complete the long journey to the deep south in one trip, Chumphon was where passengers stopped for an overnight layover. Today, the town is still littered with old wooden shophouses, bustling markets and a few old inns that conjure up a clear picture of the town in its heyday.

But a holiday is Chumphon is mainly about the sea. The beaches are relatively calm year-round thanks to the natural harbour provided by the Gulf of Thailand and the coastline is dotted with beautiful islands perfect for snorkelling or scuba diving. Those who prefer lazing around on the sand should head to the vast Thung Wua Laen beach in Patieu district in the north of the province. Once dense with tropical forest, the beach is mostly unspoiled and thanks to committed locals remains free from loungers, umbrellas, food hawkers and roaming masseuses.

For breakfast and lunch, head into Chumphon town and enjoy delicious Southern fare prepared mostly from fresh seafood and made to well-preserved home recipes. On Saladaeng Road, which cuts through the town's centre, you can sample dishes from many old shophouses that take turns opening throughout the day.

Guang Heng is a small rice-and-curry place housed in a wooden structure complete with folding screen doors. It opens at the crack of dawn and offers curries of all kinds, stir-fries, deep-fries and soups with steamed rice or rice vermicelli. It's also famous for home-made Thai desserts, especially smooth durian and sticky rice.

If you think phad thai is a Thai food institution, don't miss to try Chumphon's version of this famous dish. Stir-fried on the muted heat of a charcoal stove, the phad thai at a nondescript shop at the back of the main market was one of the best I had ever tasted. The lady who cooks the noodles owns and runs the place, which can be busy during lunch hours.

A must-see in Chumphon is the sacred shrine of the late Prince of Chumphon at Sai Ri beach about 20 kilometres south of the town. A son of King Rama V, the Prince founded the Thai Royal Navy before his premature death back in 1923, while serving at sea. His shrine has become both a tourist spot and place of worship for Thais, especially those who work on the high seas.

Chumphon also boasts a lively night market near the railway station and for dinner, there's little more satisfying than seafood BBQ, meats on skewers, crispy-fried mussels, sweet bua loy (dumplings) with eggs in coconut milk and old-style crispy Thai crepes. Just make sure your stomach is up for it.

A gourmet's guide to town

>> Guang Heng is on Saladaeng Road and is open daily except Mondays. Call (077) 501-079.

>> The Phad Thai stall is at the back of the Saladaeng and Poraminmakka intersection. Fish ball noodles are also available.

>> Yen Sa, an old-fashioned shop selling ice cream in coconut, vanilla and chocolate flavours with corn soup or fruits in syrup toppings in also on Saladaeng Road.

>> For great Southern dishes including chicken Betong style and stir-fried morning glory with shrimp paste, drop by Nam Pung restaurant at Chansom Hotel near Saladaeng Road.

>> Ban Suan Sai Tarn, a small family-run restaurant near the Ta Tapao river, offers such Thai fare as steamed sea bass with spicy garlic sauce, shrimps with tamarind sauce and somtam. Call (081) 893 7871.

>> Guay Tiew Ton Mayom at Baan Saplee serves sumptuous seafood noodles. (077) 560 154.

>> Lung Rom Resort at Na Tung cooks fresh seafood to order. Reserve a table at (077) 526 650.

>> Sip a coffee at Cera Café on Highway 1007 while staring out at a field dotted with birds and water buffalo.

If you go

Chumphon is 500 km from Bangkok. Trains leave regularly from Hua Lampong station and the journey takes 7 to 9 hours. Visit www.Railway.co.th. Budget airline Solar Air (SolarAir.co.th) flies daily between Bangkok and Chumphon. Prices vary from Bt2,200 to Bt2,700.

[margaretcarnes]

It is far too long since I visited Chumphon, and even then have never been down to the beach area. The town itself is well worth a visit IMO. The railway station is a little gem. The road into town from the station is magic - and very reminisent of HH. Well worth a visit and hardly a hardship for a trip from HH for any bored expat IMO.

[caller]

I'm afraid the place didn't do much for me. The resort area is a bit out of town and the traffic/roads in town not so easy to navigate. Visited 2/3 times when last in LOS and usually ended up earlier than planned heading to Makro and then after it opened, Carrefour.

But I accept you really have to stay over to get to know a place.

[Lung Per]

I can agree with the article on Chumpon. I stayed overnight a few times on my way to Ranong. It's a very charming place and not so farang touristy. Still a lot of good ole fashioned Thai atmosphere.

[buksida]

Chumphon town itself is a bit of a hole but there are plenty of nice beach areas north and south of it.

[Lung Per]

Chumphon town itself is a bit of a hole but there are plenty of nice beach areas north and south of it.

I beg to disagree about the "hole". It all depends what you are looking for. Obviously I see things in a different perspective!

[buksida]

So enlighten us all about the delights of Chumphon town, c'mon elaborate, share the info and post a few pics if you have them. I've only visited a couple of times so probably missed a lot ...

[Lung Per]

So enlighten us all about the delights of Chumphon town, c'mon elaborate, share the info and post a few pics if you have them. I've only visited a couple of times so probably missed a lot ...

This is not about documentation. This is about attitude. Keeping an open mind for impressions. What is a hole to you may well have values for others.

[buksida]

Then it is pointless making such a comment, this forum is about sharing information, that is its purpose. Personally I found Chumphon center a nondescript Thai town similar to any other with a hellish one-way system. If there were hidden values I must have missed them ... no actually there was one or two - the Cowboy pub and a good shop to buy bathroom tiles and cheap toilets smack in the middle of town.

[Lung Per]

Then it is pointless making such a comment, this forum is about sharing information, that is its purpose. Personally I found Chumphon center a nondescript Thai town similar to any other with a hellish one-way system. If there were hidden values I must have missed them ... no actually there was one or two - the Cowboy pub and a good shop to buy bathroom tiles and cheap toilets smack in the middle of town.

For some reason your last comment does not surprise me. You know, it's like modern art; some can find beauty in a painting which to others may just be a splash of superflous paint. Carrying on this discussion is futile.
Go have a beer!

[buksida]

Seeing as you refuse to share your findings on the place it is indeed futile.

Would love a beer but its dry month ... next week ... maybe I'll go to Chumphon and hunt around for a splash of paint!

[hhfarang]

Lung Per, I have to agree with Buksi, not necessarily about Chumpon as I've never been there, but about your post. If you make a statement about a place like that,...

I beg to disagree about the "hole". It all depends what you are looking for. Obviously I see things in a different perspective!

...it is a useless statement unless you give us some details about what exactly you liked about the place. Others who may be thinking about taking a trip south by car (like me) would like to know what you found likable about the place... specifics about restaurants, beaches, shopping, people, etc. What did you see or do that formed your positive opinion, or is it to private to post on an open forum?

[deepee]

I get down to Chumpon a bit and I don't mind the place at all. The townsfolk do get about pretty business like , but I do find them friendly and less into your pockets than further up the coast. We love the night food market especially being the big foodies we are.Generally the food quality and prices around town are much better than HH/CA. Yes the town itself is a bit bland but still worth the effort to get on down-except when it's raining,never seen anything like it when the rain hits that place.

[Lung Per]

Lung Per, I have to agree with Buksi, not necessarily about Chumpon as I've never been there, but about your post. If you make a statement about a place like that,...

I beg to disagree about the "hole". It all depends what you are looking for. Obviously I see things in a different perspective!

...it is a useless statement unless you give us some details about what exactly you liked about the place. Others who may be thinking about taking a trip south by car (like me) would like to know what you found likable about the place... specifics about restaurants, beaches, shopping, people, etc. What did you see or do that formed your positive opinion, or is it to private to post on an open forum?

Please look again at the original statement by prcscct.
I hit Chumpon on a couple of bright days with an open mind. Had positive vibes by the foklore, and the sun reflected brilliantly on the otherwise dirty streets and houses. Reminded me of scenes from some old US movies with Dennis Hopper - excellent photography. Had some fine and inexpensive Thai food, forgot the name, and talked to friendly Thai people. Not looking for bars or waterholes. You can find beauty everywhere if you keep an open mind. Chumpon, however, is not outstanding from other small Thai towns I've visited. I just dont appreciate someone calling it a hole.
This concludes my contribution to the discussion.
Have a nice day y'all.

[STEVE G]

Those who prefer lazing around on the sand should head to the vast Thung Wua Laen beach in Patieu district in the north of the province. Once dense with tropical forest, the beach is mostly unspoiled and thanks to committed locals remains free from loungers, umbrellas, food hawkers and roaming masseuses.

We had a couple of days staying at this beach last month with some friends staying at the Nana Beach Hotel and rather enjoyed it. It's pretty relaxed and there were just enough bars and restaurants within walking distance to keep me from getting bored in the evenings. They had some very friendly staff at the hotel and it didn't take my partner long to have them ferrying us around the beach using their motor cycle and sidecar!
We also discovered a very pleasent and unspoilt area by driving north along the coast using local roads up towards Bang Saphan Noi with some pretty dramatic scenery.
http://www.agoda.com/en-ca/nana-beach-h ... dlme8IQ%3d