Vietnam - Hanoi & Halong Bay

[Big Boy]

Of course, I will include as full a cost list at the end of this report in a couple of days time. I will be as accurate as possible, and will quote the currencies used.

[Siani]

Looks great BB

[Big Boy]

Part 6 - Tran Quoc Pagoda & Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum

Tran Quoc Pagoda

This was our last full day in Vietnam, so we wanted to see as much of Hanoi as possible, so we went for it. We did an awful lot, and I’ve still got the blisters to prove it.

Entrance to Trấn Quốc Pagoda

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The Trấn Quốc Pagoda in Hanoi is the oldest pagoda in the city, originally constructed in the sixth century during the reign of Emperor Ly Nam De, thus giving it an age of 1,400 years. When founded the temple was named Khai Quoc (National Founding) and was sited on the shores of the Red River, outside of the Yen Phu Dyke. When confronted with the river's encroachment, the temple was relocated in 1615 to Kim Ngu (Golden Fish) islet of Ho Tay (West Lake) where it is now situated. A small causeway links it to the mainland. The last major repair to the temple was undertaken in 1815 when the main sanctuary, reception hall and posterior hall of the dead were renovated.

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Over the years, the temple was variously named An Quoc (Pacification of the Realm) and Tran Bac (Guardian of the North) as well.

With its harmonious architecture taking advantage of the watery landscape, the pagoda is a picturesque attraction. The sunset views from the temple grounds are renowned.

Among the historic relics are statuary pieces dating to 1639.


Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum

The final resting place of Vietnam’s greatest father. Very strictly controlled by the military. Queues were huge, but we were through within 10 minutes. He was very well preserved, in fact had a plastic appearance. I was given a non-verbal telling off as we filed past because I had my hands behind my back instead of by my side.

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Obviously no photos were permitted inside, but we were permitted to take photos of the building itself.


Tomorrow's installment: Ho Chi Minh’s Stilt House & One-Pillar Pagoda

[Big Boy]

Part 7 - Ho Chi Minh’s Stilt House & One-Pillar Pagoda

Ho Chi Minh’s Stilt House

First off we saw the very grand presidential palace and its grounds. However, he was too down to earth to live in such grandeur.

The Presidential Palace

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We then walked past the palace out buildings, which included the garage housing his cars. However, we were told that he was happier on a bicycle

Part of the Palace outbuildings

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One of Ho Chi Minh's cars on display

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Then we moved to his actual abode, a very basic stilted house. Although very basic, it did have a nuclear bunker immediately next door.

Ho Chi Minh's actual abode

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The nuclear bunker beside the humble abode

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One-Pillar Pagoda

The One Pillar Pagoda is a historic Buddhist temple. It is regarded alongside the Perfume Temple, as one of Vietnam's two most iconic temples.

One-Pillar Pagoda

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The temple was built by Emperor Lý Thái Tông, who ruled from 1028 to 1054. According to the court records, Lý Thái Tông was childless and dreamt that he met the bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara, who handed him a baby son while seated on a lotus flower. Lý Thái Tông then married a peasant girl that he had met and she bore him a son. The emperor constructed the temple in gratitude for this in 1049, having been told by a monk named Thiền Tuệ to build the temple, by erecting a pillar in the middle of a lotus pond, similar to the one he saw in the dream.

One-Pillar Pagoda

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The temple was located in what was then the Tây Cấm Garden in Thạch Bảo, Vĩnh Thuận district in the capital Thăng Long (now known as Hanoi). Before the pagoda was opened, prayers were held for the longevity of the monarch. During the Lý Dynasty era, the temple was the site of an annual royal ceremony on the occasion of Vesak, the birthday of Gautama Buddha. A Buddha-bathing ceremony was held annually by the monarch, and it attracted monks and laymen alike to the ceremony. The monarch would then free a bird, which was followed by the people.

Inside the Pagoda

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View in front of the One-Pillar Pagoda

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The temple is built of wood on a single stone pillar 1.25 m in diameter, and it is designed to resemble a lotus blossom, which is a Buddhist symbol of purity, since a lotus blossoms in a muddy pond. In 1954, the French Union forces destroyed the pagoda before withdrawing from Vietnam after the First Indochina War, It was rebuilt afterwards.


Tomorrow's installment: Ethnology Museum & Temple of Literature

[Big Boy]

Part 8 - Ethnology Museum & Temple of Literature

Ethnology Museum

Ethnology Museum

Museum entrance

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Vietnam has 54 ethnic groups, each of them is represented here with many examples of how they live.

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In the grounds are many full scale authentic replications of traditional dwellings of many of the groups.

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A fertility house???

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Don't look Ethel!!!

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Temple of Literature

Temple entrance

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Temple grounds

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Temple grounds

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This is the most famous temple in Hanoi. It also functioned as Vietnam’s first university. It was first constructed in 1070 under King Ly Nhan Tong and dedicated to Confucius, sages and scholars. It is a vast structure that has stood the test of time.

It was considered that you would gain super intelligence if you rubbed the turtle's head. Hence all of the turtles had very worn/smooth heads, and were now cordoned off to preserve them.

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Inside the temple

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Inside the temple

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On the day we visited there was a large folk festival with acts from all over Vietnam. This served to make the temple even more colourful.

A group of performers on stage at the folk festival

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NB: I haven't said much today. I could have copied reems and reems from the Internet, but decided to let the pictures do the talking.

Tomorrow's installment: Vietnam trip summary and costs

[migrant]

Thanks for the great reports!!!

[Vital Spark]

Great trip report, BB. We went to Vietnam last April, and pretty much did the same trips. The biggest disappointment was actually Halong Bay. We took a one-night trip, and, maybe it was the tour guide, but we were hearded (ordered) around like a bunch of school kids. I arrived 5 minutes late for the breakfast to be told that it was finished. 'I suppose you can have a cup of tea, but the kitchen staff are washing up, and the next load will be on soon, so don't take too long drinking it!'. We felt like we were on some kind of production line. It must be admitted we did behave a little bit like naughtly school kids, as we'd read on the trip blurb that you could only drink stuff from the bar (i.e. no bring your own). Well, we managed to smuggle a couple of bottles of lovely Dalat wine on board, and surreptitiously drank them in our cabin.

What I would recommend to anyone thinking of going to Hanoi is 'Hanoi Kids'. They're university students who will be your guide around the city. They refuse to take any payment, as their reason for doing the job is to improve their already excellent English, and meet foreigners. All you have to pay for are the taxi fares from place to place. The two girls we hired were excellent, and we still keep in touch with them now.

Thank you.

VS

[Big Boy]

Part 9 - Conclusion and Costs

I'm busy all day tomorrow, so here's tomorrow's installment a few hours early:

Vietnam Conclusion

I was almost put off making this trip because of the visa hassle. Obtaining a visa from the Vietnamese Embassy would have taken 2 days, and with the associated travel and costs, I decided Visa on Arrival (VOA) was the easier route to take. I went on the Internet to find out how to obtain authority for VOA and found warnings about scam artists, and a list rogue scam websites. I eventually bit the bullet and chose a sight. Feedback from the sight was ‘very Asian’ and I had to make numerous phone calls to the UK/Vietnam to reassure myself that I hadn’t been scammed.

I don’t generally like capital cities, but I could make an exception with Hanoi. It didn’t have the feel of a capital city, and I thought it was quite a romantic place.

Of all the memories I’ve brought home with me, I guess the traffic was my number 1. How we built the courage to step off the pavement into busy traffic, totally reliant upon the fact we were told they would drive around/miss us. Thinking we were taking our lives in our hands every time we crossed the road.

Number 2 has to be Halong Bay. The natural beauty is out of this world. Halong Bay should be on everybody’s bucket list.

Health and Safety – after living in Thailand, where Health and Safety is virtually non-existent, it was such an eye opener to see motorcyclists wearing crash helmets, life vests being enforced when travelling on water, steps being built correctly and sturdy handrails etc., etc.

This was a lovely holiday, that I would definitely commend to everybody.


Summary of Costs (in currency used)

Before I Went:

Re-entry permit – 1,000 Baht
Arrange letter to authorise Vietnamese Visa on Arrival - $15

The Trip:

Nok Air Hua Hin to Bangkok – 2 x 1,342 Baht
Hotel, Bangkok (one night) - £14.98
Air Asia Bangkok to Hanoi (return) – 2 x 4,850 Baht
Visa on Arrival - $45
Hanoi Airport/Hotel transfer – 2 x $18
3 Nights Hanoi hotel - £59.51
Halaong Bay Cruise – 2 x $139

[PeteC]

Very interesting report BB, and a great guide for anyone planning to go. Pete

[Big Boy]

The biggest disappointment was actually Halong Bay. We took a one-night trip, and, maybe it was the tour guide, but we were hearded (ordered) around like a bunch of school kids.

I guess it's luck of the draw. I booked our trip blindly (although I short-listed 6 boats first, and then created a spreadsheet to compare what each offered first). I guess you were blind as well. We were fortunate that we had a great crew, and our tour guide was brilliant.

Strangely, I tried to review V'Spirit on Trip Adviser, but they won't accept reviews for trips that involve an overnight stay. This means there is no way to independently check reviews of the various Halong Bay trips available.

[Frank Hovis]

Don't look Ethel.

That made me spit my coffee out.

What sort of temperatures were you experiencing, some of the pictures make it look bitterly cold ?

[Bamboo Grove]

Thanks for the report and photos, B.B. Then my usual questions, how did you like the local food, wine and coffee? You may have mentioned these, particularly the food but did you try any smaller restaraurants (local)? I have found the local food to be quite bland although the French things, such as hotel breakfasts have always been great. The beer, wine and coffee, I've always loved in Vietnam. As for Hanoi vs HCM, I prefer the latter as I find it more relaxing. Also the central part (Hue-Hoi An) are is great as the nature is so beautiful there.

[Big Boy]

What sort of temperatures were you experiencing, some of the pictures make it look bitterly cold ?

The average temperature during our visit was about 10C. Yes, it was brass monkey weather.

[Big Boy]

how did you like the local food, wine and coffee? You may have mentioned these, particularly the food but did you try any smaller restaraurants (local)? I have found the local food to be quite bland although the French things, such as hotel breakfasts have always been great. The beer, wine and coffee, I've always loved in Vietnam. As for Hanoi vs HCM

Food - I don't really do food these days, but what I tried was fine, and the food on the boat was superb.

Wine - Neither Mrs BB nor I drink. I did try a couple of beers, and really enjoyed them.

Coffee - The jury is still out on that one. I absolutely hated it initially, but I persisted, and was actually enjoying it by the time we left.

Smaller Restaurants - Yes, we tried a few. I'd give them all an OK, but nothing outstanding.

Hotel Breakfasts - The buffet fruits, bread and yoghurt sections were excellent. The cooked section - yuk.

HCM - We didn't go there, but would like to. Other have told that it is better than Hanoi.

[Korkenzieher]

Some great reminders on Hanoi and Halong Bay there. I was there for 8 days in 2008, and unfortunately have very few pictures due to a camera failure. That water puppet theatre has certainly been spruced up since I was there though, if memory is anything to go by!