Photo trip report: A glimpse into Cambodia

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buksida
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Re: Photo trip report: A glimpse into Cambodia

Post by buksida »

That sums it up well, a lot of those settling in Cambodia now are ex-Thailand long-termers that are fed up with the xenophobia and arrogance that is emerging with the current generation of Thai nouveau riche. Twenty years ago it was a friendly welcoming society here, today it is "get out of the way lowly farang, I'm coming through in my SUV with my iPad". Burmese and Khmer people are totally different.

After a lazy beach afternoon I ride back towards Kampot and cross the river on a bridge that looks like it is about to collapse. Locals then tell me that it did last year! I follow the river west and into the Preah Monivong National Park, pay my dollar entrance fee, and find a quiet spot on the rocky bank of the Kam Chay River to enjoy a cold tinny as the sun drops over the looming Bokor hills.
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Full trip report and photo galleries:
http://ontheroadasia.com/phnom-penh.php
http://ontheroadasia.com/kampot.php

To follow: Cambodia - Thailand comparison
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Roel
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Re: Photo trip report: A glimpse into Cambodia

Post by Roel »

Kep. Sounds like Hua Hin 25 years ago. A beach resort mainly visited by locals. But now a farang retirement haven. Time to invest in Kep now buksida and harvest in 20 years when the farangs will be there in great numbers. You will be in business long before the crooks smell it and come to %$##$ things up.
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buksida
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Re: Photo trip report: A glimpse into Cambodia

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I'll do a comparison to Thailand now as I do with all the Asian countries I visit ...

The People
Similar to the Burmese, Khmer people are very friendly and curious of other cultures and people. They are not as pretentious as Thais and nowhere near as nationalistic though they are not very fond of their immediate neighbours. Due to extreme poverty and a very hard life Phnom Penh can be violent if you venture down darkened alleys, robberies are commonplace so you need to be on your guard. Elsewhere in the kingdom is pretty safe and welcoming.

The Motoring
Thailand is practically civilized compared to Cambodia though the condition of the roads is rapidly catching up. Motoring in the city is absolute mayhem though nothing seems to go fast enough to cause anywhere near the number of accidents that happen in Thailand. Cops are friendly towards foreigners (at least the ones I met) and are not lurking behind bushes trying to nab tourists or raiding bars asking for tea money.

The Prices
Cambodia is at least half the price of Thailand for pretty much everything, tuktuks and taxis are a couple of dollars instead of 300 baht, basic accommodation is a lot cheaper though you can pay for flash rooms if you want them. Street food is cheaper but the standard is nowhere near as good as Thailand, the opposite can be said for farang food though, you'll get a good western feed for 5-6 bucks. Drinking is less than half the price, a tin of Thai beer in a shop is 15 baht, a pitcher of beer in a bar is 60 baht and you can buy bottles of any spirits duty free pretty much every where for about 30% of the cost of the same in Thailand.

The Environment
The plastic generation is in full swing here, I have yet to go to an Asian country (except maybe Malaysia) that isnt strewn with plastic bags and bottles. Piles of it can be found on corners in the cities though they do have refuse collection that comes out at 2am to clean up. There are very few soi dogs, I was told they're sent to Vietnam where they go on the menu.

The Tourism
The hospitality industry for a poor country is impressive, service is prompt and people are helpful. You dont get "mai mee" in Cambodia, if they dont have what you want they'll find someone that does. Getting into attractions such as National Parks costs a dollar, not 400 baht.

Visas are a breeze compare to Thailand and its constant clampdowns, tourists get 28 days on arrival (after a bit of dicking around). For $35 you can get a visa on arrival that is extendable for an additional $200 or so for a year and includes a work permit. There is no looking at your bank account, no maps to your house, no photos of your wife, no house books, no tax documents, no company invite letters, no embassy paperwork, and no money under the table. You can work where you like doing what you like - it is Thailand 20 years ago.

Eating and Drinking
Khmer food isnt the best though the standard of western food is impressive (maybe because farangs can actually work there without fear). The colonial influence also means you can get good bread everywhere for virtually nothing and cheese and meats are widely available at a fraction of the price of Thailand. Small restaurants serve good cheap food all over the country. Bars and restaurants can open 24/7, serve what they like when they like, play what music they like, and employ who they like - pretty much the total opposite of here.

The Shopping
Cambodia has yet to be polluted by chains of fattening western fast food, hence the people are all thinner. There are small convenience stores all over the place though to get your dailies. There are a couple of shiny malls in the capital though nothing on the scale of Bangkok.

Would I live there?
Yes. Though not in Phnom Penh, big cities are a little too full on for me, I would probably choose Kampot as a base. Rent is pretty cheap, you can get a decent apartment for 100-200 bucks (try doing that in Hua Hin) and life is hassle free, your money goes a lot further in Cambodia. An estimated 80% of expats currently living in Cambodia have moved over from Thailand having given up on the bullshit and incessant clampdowns in favour of a more relaxed life without the insecurity of moving goal posts and ever shifting sands of Thai bureaucracy and anti-foreigner sentiment.


Thanks for reading and please feel free to post any questions on Cambodia, I'll try to answer. All photos and the full reports are on http://www.ontheroadasia.com
Who is the happier man, he who has braved the storm of life and lived or he who has stayed securely on shore and merely existed? - Hunter S Thompson
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buksida
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Re: Photo trip report: A glimpse into Cambodia

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Looks like the market has gone now ...



A fire swept through the Old Market here in the capital city of Cambodia on Monday, completely destroying about 300 out of the market's 914 stalls, a senior official said.

http://www.bangkokpost.com/news/asia/44 ... old-market
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Re: Photo trip report: A glimpse into Cambodia

Post by Dr Mike »

I have taken a break from retirement and am in Kampot 145K south of PP. I am leading a team to open a new maternity unit in a charity hospital here. This is the direct opposite of my previous work in Thai as this is a hospital charging laughably low fees and catering to the needs of the poor women of Cambodia.
I think Buksida has nailed it, I agree with his assessments. What is refreshing here is that the people I work with know that their standards are lower than WHO recommends and are eager to seek help and mentoring to achieve change. When I give talks to the doctors, nurses and midwives they interrupt ask a thousand questions and are very grateful to me for my efforts. I sense none of the 'We don't really need you farangs" attitude that one feels in Thai.
The tourism is nowhere near Thai levels and a high proportion of backpackers. New hotels are being built and this may change, but slowly. In PP there area couple of bar areas similar to BB or Soi 80, but this is not a pattern. In kampot where I am there is none of it. One difference, the day starts earlier and ends earlier. By 10pm things are winding down. I watched Rugby in a bar last weekend and had to make arrangements earlier for a tuk tuk to pick me up at 11 as it is difficult to find one available that late.
I don't see many western families here, the expats are almost all single men. PP of course is different, many western companies and NGO doing business here, several International schools and Chambers of commerce etc.
The money is strange. You carry US Greenbacks and when you get change you get $ to the nearest $ then the small change in Cambodian money. At first charges sound forbidding, a good western dinner 22,000, but that is only $5.50.
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Re: Photo trip report: A glimpse into Cambodia

Post by richard »

I've just returned after a five day visit there with a couple of friends. The main objective was for one of friends to obtain a visa. He'd suddenly lost his teaching job here and therefore work permit and visa expired on the 23rd November. With a Thai wife and child to support panic set in.

My friend was aiming to get a 90 day non-im O visa. In hindsight we should have come a day earlier or left a day later as he only had Thursday and Friday and had been advised by his so called ‘visa expert’ that 2 working days is not enough time but my friend was going to settle for a tourist visa if all else failed anyway. He set off for the embassy on Wednesday morning with passport, papers relating to his Thai marriage and his Thai child and a slight hangover.

First goof of the trip. He returned to the hotel and woke me up to tell me he had turned up at the consulate with correct paperwork but with MY passport. Reception had obviously done a passport shuffle when checking in. After I had recovered from my bout of raucous laughter I handed him his passport and he fled back to the consulate.

He eventually joined us and told us that they had initially stated that could not complete processing until Monday and after settling that a tourist visa would have to do they let him stew for a bit. Eventually they collared him and said they would make an exception and all processing would be completed by late Friday afternoon. After a lengthy wait at the consulate he finally got his 90day visa very late on Friday.

Is this the new directive from on high about ‘more flexibility with visa issues’ starting to bite?


My last trip to Cambodia was 10 years ago for a visa run but I tagged some time on to do Siem Reap and Phnom Penh so travelled and did a bit of sight seeing. Over the last few years I had also joined a couple of Cambodian forums and asked some questions and all agreed on major differences between the two countries.

I totally agree with the points made by Buksida and Dr. Mike but would add:

1) Night life in Phnom Penh can be strenuous. There are several locations. Isolated bars in quiet roads, roads lined with bars and then bars and restaurants on the tourist laden road along the river Official closing time is 3am. That can stretch until the sun comes up and therefore ruin the next days plans.

2) In the 5 days there I saw 4 policemen who were usually chatting on a street corner.

Those on our forum seeking work in Thailand (GLCQ note)should consider Cambodia IMO. Easier it seems. Whether in teaching, bar/restaurant ownership etc. Was warned farming could be a problem though.

If I was to re-start my retirement in SE Asia that I did 15 years ago I'd be heading to Vietnam (no 1), Cambodia (no 2) and then.........maybe.. Thailand. :cheers:
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Re: Photo trip report: A glimpse into Cambodia

Post by Dr Mike »

Getting a work permit seems very easy. I had a letter of invitation, I showed this at the airport and an officer looked at it for about 3 seconds and they gave the appropriate visa ($5 more) then the lady in HR took my PP one day and gave it back a few hours later with the WP. I asked her if it was difficult, she could not understand the question. I met an expat who is retired but has a work permit as he does some DJing, he said he didn't know whether it was necessary, but its so easy to get-- so why not? Cambodia is actively seeking foreign investment and I think they realize that with foreign investment comes lots of foreigners wanting WPs.
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Re: Photo trip report: A glimpse into Cambodia

Post by Stargeezer »

Great pictures, too bad that Thaksin had to go there at all.
Meddling people!
I may have to go there sometime and see for myself, but will go to Vietnam first
with my wife and her Vietnamese friend.
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