5 Days in the Chiang Mai Area

[Big Boy]

Day 3 – In Search of the Long Necked Women

I’d visited hill tribes before, but had never seen these long necked freaks (meant in the nicest of ways). It seems that there has been a lot of protests about the freak shows, and their locations have become closely guarded secrets known only to tour companies. I also read that Thai people can have difficulty booking a place on a tour. Traditionally they are found a little further North, but I’d heard that a few enterprising Long Necks (Kayang Karen Tribe) had relocated to the Chiang Mai area i.e. closer to the tourist Baht.

I’d been told a general direction, but of course, couldn’t get a precise location. We had quite a scenic drive looking for them, getting lost several times. Fortunately my wife was able to get out of the car to ask. Eventually we got there. Quite ironically, the publicity signpost outside mentioned several tribes, but not the Long Necked Women. This cost us 500 Baht each to get in, and we were assured before we went that this was the cheapest around. No negotiation.

8 tribes

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8 tribes

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In the ‘plastic’ very authentic looking village, there were 8 tribes, all willing to talk to you about village life, and sell you their traditional wares. The first place we stopped there was an old guy encouraging people to shoot a crossbow. My son tried it (never shot anything other than a super soaker at Songkran before) – 3 arrows, 3 bulls eyes. I tried 2 arrows, twice hit the water melon, but nowhere near the bull.

3 arrows, 3 bulls eyes.

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the ‘plastic’ very authentic looking village

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the ‘plastic’ very authentic looking village

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the ‘plastic’ very authentic looking village

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the ‘plastic’ very authentic looking village

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the ‘plastic’ very authentic looking village

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the ‘plastic’ very authentic looking village

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the ‘plastic’ very authentic looking village

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the ‘plastic’ very authentic looking village

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Anyway, we worked our way around until we came to what we’d been hoping to see - Long Necked Women.

Long Necked Women

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These women were incredible. Not all had long necks, some only wore leg rings.

some only wore leg rings

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some only wore leg rings

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Some of them looking as though their heads had been stuck on the top ring. They were friendly enough, and chatted with us. We had many photos took with these ladies, and even their children who were also having their necks stretched.

looking as though their heads had been stuck on the top ring

looking as though their heads had been stuck on the top ring

looking as though their heads had been stuck on the top ring

looking as though their heads had been stuck on the top ring

looking as though their heads had been stuck on the top ring

looking as though their heads had been stuck on the top ring

We were given examples of the neck (and leg) gear they were wearing to look at – it was heavy, and I wouldn’t fancy having one stuck on my neck. Well worth coming to see, and even though they are nice people, it is no more than a freak show, and I wouldn’t rush back to see it again.

During my research, it said the ladies wore the rings to ward off tigers - they all looked healthy enough, so it must be working.

Tomorrow: Doi Inthanon

[Big Boy]

Day 4 – (Part 1) Doi Inthanon

Today was all about Doi Inthanon, and a Hot Spring (Part 2) was just an extra that we saw on the way back to the hotel, and took what proved to be a very long detour to get there.

I’d heard a few people talk about Doi Inthanon (highest point in Thailand), saying how beautiful, but also how very cold it was. I’d also heard that Thai vehicles really struggle at altitude.

The 60 mile drive to Doi Inthanon National Park was quite routine. We got to the park entrance, and got hit by the 300 Baht Farang admission charge and 40 Baht Thai admission charge.

Entrance to the Park

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Entrance to the Park

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Top Tip: Anybody doing this trip, if you do it in reverse i.e. Thep Phanom Hot Spring, followed by Doi Inthanon, you can avoid the admission charge because the road comes into the park beyond the 2nd check point.

We were now driving through significant jungle roads (surface was good to drive on), up and down some very steep hills with a lot of very sharp bends. On some of the higher hills, performance was becoming a problem with the car. It kept losing its oomph as I’d been warned.

Eventually, we started climbing Doi Inthanon itself, and I was beginning to have doubts whether the hire car was going to get to the top. I had to knock the automatic gearbox into a lower gear to make progress. We were also driving into a big cloud. Fog??? I remember fog.

Half way up the mountain, there were a couple of Pagodas, 1 built by the army and 1 by the air force. Entrance to this area was 40 Baht each.
Top tip: The guy taking the money is useless at maths. He reckoned 3 x 40 Baht = 180 Baht. I reckon he had to go without his tea that day.

Half way up the mountain, there were a couple of Pagodas

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We got out of the car in what at best could be described as mist, but often deteriorated to thick fog. It was very cold here, with the temperature at a British summer time level of 20C. The first thing that struck us was the flowers – these were British flowers. Buzy Lizzies, Hydrangeas, Fuchsias and the grass was real British grass. All set in beautiful landscaped gardens.

The first thing that struck us was the flowers

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beautiful landscaped gardens

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beautiful landscaped gardens

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beautiful landscaped gardens

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This is what it looks like without cloud

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beautiful landscaped gardens

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beautiful landscaped gardens

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beautiful landscaped gardens

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There was an elevator to both Pagodas, so my wife was able to get up there. We didn’t stay too long, it was too cold.

too cold

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A long climb to the Pagodas

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an elevator to both Pagodas

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A long climb to the Pagodas

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Inside a Pagoda

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Artwork on Pagoda ceiling

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Artwork on Pagoda ceiling

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The fog was closing in.

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We then drove to the top of the mountain – it was even colder 13C.

top of the mountain

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There was a wooden walkway, and it was like walking though a British forest in the autumn. Cold and damp with moss growing everywhere.

walking though a British forest in the autumn

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a wooden walkway

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a wooden walkway

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walking though a British forest in the autumn

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We walked through to a coffee shop, which had a brilliant seating area.

a coffee shop

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It was open, but with trees directly in front of the table, and several feeders located there. While we drank our coffee, we were visited by several very colourful birds that I’d never seen before and a few squirrels. They must have been just 3’ in front of my camera.

visited by several very colourful birds that I’d never seen before and a few squirrels

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visited by several very colourful birds that I’d never seen before and a few squirrels

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visited by several very colourful birds that I’d never seen before and a few squirrels

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visited by several very colourful birds that I’d never seen before and a few squirrels

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Frozen to the bone, it was good to get back to the car for the warmth of the air conditioning.

Doi Inthanon, without a doubt was our most memorable visit of this short break.

Tomorrow: Thep Phanom Hot Spring

[Big Boy]

Day 4 – (Part 2) Thep Phanom Hot Spring

I was driving back to the hotel, when I saw the sign for Thep Phanom Hot Spring. Never having been to a hot spring before, we thought let’s do it. This turned out to be a bit of a mistake, because the sign post had no distance on it – it was a long way. The roads were the worst we’d encountered for switch backs, and the signs simply ran out. We had to stop several times to ask the way (and were lost several times).

Eventually, we got there

Entrance

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Entrance

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Entrance

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and it was as though we’d entered the set of One Flew Over The Cuckoos Nest. There were dozens of what my wife describes as 50/50 people wandering about like zombies. I was in 2 minds as to whether we should get out of the car (in fairness to the spring, this was not a usual feature - these guys were visitors like us, and did have quite a few supervisors with them - scary all the same though). Admission for the 3 of us was 250 Baht. This price included a free bath, which we didn't take advantage of. We also paid 40 Baht for 8 eggs to boil in the spring. They loaned us the baskets and sticks to cook the eggs in free of charge.

We wandered over to the first spring, and yes, the water was hot – like wet paint, you’ve just got to touch it.

We wandered over to the first spring

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We wandered over to the first spring

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The first spring was marked as being 30C, the next was marked as 40C, although felt a little cooler. Then we walked onto the mud?? flats where water was just popping up where it wanted to. There was a wooden walkway, but we felt deviation was the order of the day. Here the water was up to 90C.

There was a wooden walkway

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we felt deviation was the order of the day

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we felt deviation was the order of the day

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we felt deviation was the order of the day

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we felt deviation was the order of the day

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There was a wooden walkway

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Another spring

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We successfully boiled our eggs, and ate them with some sticky rice which my wife just happened to have with her (as you do out here), before driving home.

We successfully boiled our eggs

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It was interesting, I’m glad I went, but wouldn’t rush back to do it again.

Tomorrow: Chilling with my son's host and home again.

[Big Boy]

Day 5 – Final Day

Another chill day before flying home. My son’s host took out for lunch to a museum come restaurant. We just whiled away the hours in lovely surroundings, before making our way to the airport.

This really showed the advantage of having somebody with local knowledge to help you when in a strange city. He took us to the most fantastic restaurant, which must be well off the normal tourist trail. It wasn't in an area where tourists would normally go. He took us to The Lanna Rice Barn. It was half museum and half restaurant, set in very large grounds. The food was authentic from the area, and very tasty it was too.

I can't eat much, but I sampled the Larb Moo, Curry and Pork. All dishes you can commonly get in the Hua Hin area, but they each had that unique 'Chiang Mai Taste'. We recognised the Chiang Mai taste, because he'd taken us to another authentic restaurant the evening before, and we experienced flavours.

The Lanna Rice Barn

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The Lanna Rice Barn

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The Lanna Rice Barn

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The Lanna Rice Barn

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The Lanna Rice Barn

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The flight home was as uneventful as the journey to Chiang Mai, but it was still a 1st (cattle) class service.

Our bird arriving

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On board

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On board

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Back in Hua Hin

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Conclusion

It was over 20 years since I’d spent any time in Chiang Mai. At that time our hotel was just outside the city wall, which was basically the city boundary. It was still the country’s 2nd city. It has certainly grown a lot since then.

There are a lot of touristy things to see – some plastic, some natural. We covered a lot of miles in our 5 days, and could have found plenty more things to keep us amused. A nice holiday destination, but a long way to the beach. The university want my son back, so this could become a regular destination - with flights from Hua Hin, it is simple. We might even make it an excursion when we get longer term visitors i.e. it gives a non-expensive option to see a completely different side of Thailand.

Compared with Hua Hin, basics such as hotel prices are incredibly cheap i.e. we stayed 5 nights at a decent hotel for less than many friends pay for a single night when visiting Hua Hin. Food and drink prices were definitely cheaper.

On the downside, closing time in Chiang Mai is midnight, at which time the police are out in force – I’m sure if you’re desperate enough you can find some hidden places behind locked doors - but do you need a drink so much that you have to hide away in a locked room to break the law? It is also an area that enforces the 300 mtr drink exclusion zone.

I wouldn't want to live there, but nice to visit.

[pharvey]

Loved the report BB Great advice, great photo's and plenty to think about!!

The LHG has never visited Chiang Mai and is very keen do do so next time we visit Thailand. Has to be said, after reading your report, I'm keen to visit again also - especially some of the "non-touristy" bits as you have done.

I do however want to see parts of the "Wat Rong Khun/Golden Triangle Tour" you did - the skeletal carvings and "slaves" appeal, but I suspect the LHG would disagree!!

With flights from HH and the quality of the hotel (at THAT price), I'm sure we'll be spending several days on our next visit.... just not too sure about the amount of driving though.

Just as an aside, is there any part of the year/season to avoid or go for?

[Big Boy]

We were going to go in the first 3 months of the year, but reports were that it is burning season, and air quality is poor. However, I believe the spring flowers are spectacular at that time of year.

[Dannie Boy]

We were going to go in the first 3 months of the year, but reports were that it is burning season, and air quality is poor. However, I believe the spring flowers are spectacular at that time of year.

It's more speculation than fact, but I would assume it would be fairly chilly (at night) in Dec/Jan/Feb.

[Big Boy]

As low as -8 on top of Doi Inthanon.

[pharvey]

As low as -8 on top of Doi Inthanon.

Yeah....., I think I'd prefer to avoid that!

[caller]

Excellent report BB, I must get up that way sometime. I'd like to drive from Korat, but the other half isn't keen. I guess Kan Air may reintroduce their service from here in due course?

[Big Boy]

Didn't I see a Nok Air flight to the Korat area while waiting to return to Hua Hin? If not Korat, it was somewhere close.

[migrant]

Thanks for the great report and pics!

[Terry]

Yes - nice report BB.

I did a similar trip 21 years ago and it impressed me then.

I have been trying to persuade Mrs.T to go up there for a week or so for a break.

Hoping to succeed in a few weeks time when the boys are also off school on midterm.

We shall see.

[Big Boy]

I’ve written the mandatory complaint letter. In the unlikely event that I receive a reply (This Is Thailand – TIT), I will let you know how I get on.

RESULT I've just received this from the Hire Company:

To show how much we value your custom, we’ve refunded 551.50THB to the payment card ending with **** – the card you used to make your booking (353210024), as a good will gesture.

The money should appear on your statement in the next 7 - 10 working days.

[migrant]

I’ve written the mandatory complaint letter. In the unlikely event that I receive a reply (This Is Thailand – TIT), I will let you know how I get on.

RESULT I've just received this from the Hire Company:

To show how much we value your custom, we’ve refunded 551.50THB to the payment card ending with **** – the card you used to make your booking (353210024), as a good will gesture.

The money should appear on your statement in the next 7 - 10 working days.

It goes to show that there are companies that think customer service is important in Thailand. Not sure how much the refund is as a percentage of what you paid, but a nice gesture