Cycling Cha Am - Two Caves In One Day [long]

[Ratsima]

I'd had my eye on pair of adjacent caves for some time but just got around to planning a trip last week. The caves are (with Google Maps links):
Kai Lone Cave and Lap Lae Cave
They looked pretty far to me, but Google said 40K one way so I decided to go for it. I left about 6:30 AM last Friday (September 30, 2022), headed south on Mittraphap to Hwy 1001 which is perhaps best known as the road to Springfield Golf. I followed 1001 west to Tung Ngam reservoir which is actually pretty nice.

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From there I rounded the reservoir on an unnamed country road. I was surprised to see a large oil palm plantation off that road which has an adjacent research biofuel refinery and a filling station at which their biodiesel is sold.

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From there I road through another surprise, the Red Cross Horse Farm. The horses are used to produce snake venom and rabies serums. Continuing on, the road up to Kai Lone is just across Hwy 3301. The road to the cave is awful for cycling and consists of very loose gravel. Toward the end it steepens to the point that I had to hop of the bike and walk the last 100 meters.

Off the parking lot is a sala which on that day was being used for a vegetarian festival ceremony. I was beat after 40K but decided to head for the cave. The bottom of the long stairway is decorated with the usual Buddhist and Hindu images.

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The stairway itself is very steep and poorly built. The risers are quite variable in height and depth. The stairway is under renovation which appears to have ground to a halt during the reign of Rama V. By the time I reached the top my heart rate was 180. Quite high for an old man. My Apple Watch told me I'd climbed 13 flights. It felt like more. Here's a view from the top looking down.

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The entrance of the cave is unremarkable.

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But inside is something else.

(to be continued)

[Ratsima]

The entrance to Kai Lone cave opens into a large chamber full of many Buddha images and other stuff.

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Two short passages lead to a smaller chamber with this beautiful chedi.

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A closer look at some Buddha images.

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At the entrance is this collection of tiny Buddhas.

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My water bottle was empty by the time I got down the steps, but the sala, where water is available, was full of ceremony attendees. I guess I looked somewhat pitiful as someone asked what I needed. I said water and was kindly handed two sealed cups of very cold and very welcome water, most of which went into my bottle. I got on the bike and head for Lap Lae Cave. There is a gravel road from one cave to the next, but I opted to head back to Hwy 3301 for what I was sure was easier cycling.

(to be continued)

[Ratsima]

The unpaved road from Hwy 3301 up to Lap Lae cave is simply awful. It seems to consist mostly of fist-sized hunks of what looked like sandstone but is probably chert or perhaps mud-stained limestone. I was terrified that my bike tires would be ripped to shreds. I made it; once again having to push my bike up the final steep hundred yards.

Although this cave is on the grounds of a monastery, there was only one old wooden open air building visible. It was full of cooking implements and the other sort of junk you find at rural temples. Inside an old monk was smoking a cigarette and playin with his phone. He started talking to me, but, dumb as I am, I had no idea what he was on about. Eventually he offered a light. It was one of those ancient things with a big lamp connected to a heavy 12 volt lantern battery. I had brought my own torch so declined the offer. His last utterance to me was an exhortation to avoid touching things. That I understood.

Fortunately, the steps up to Lap Lae Cave a short, well designed and in good shape.

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The entrance unremarkable.

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But inside is wonderful.

(to be continued)

[Ratsima]

The entrance to Lap Lae cave opens in to what must be a massive network of chambers and passages. The only Buddha image is this gem just inside.

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A few views of the interior.

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Much of the interior is lit by electric lamps which are both helpful and annoying. I could locate many unlit passages that went who knows where. I chose to stay in the lighted areas as getting lost is a definite possibility; especially of the power failed. Anyway, I didn't want to have to wait for Vigo Mortensen and Colin Farrell to come and rescue me.

Bats in the cave. You could easily hear the little squeals of the echolocation.


I rode pretty much straight home from there only stopping for an espresso and bottle of water at this lovely and delightful coffee shop in the middle of nowhere.

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Here's a map of the route. I turned out to be just over 83K.

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And a link to an interactive Google Map: Kai Lone and Lap Lae Caves

[Pagey]

Nice report and photos, wish I had your energy !

[centermid7]

You're a trooper! On those occassions when people ask me what all is involved with international travel I tell them you need to be a little bit fit. You sound like you are a LOT fit. I have been to that second cave although it was probably a hundred years ago and maybe even the first on although I do not recognize/remember anything from your photos. Good pics indeed.

[caller]

Great report and pics. Thanks.

[Chazz14]

Thanks for posting!