Hua Hin Beach North of Chinese Temples to Cha-Am Report

Hua Hin general discussion, observations and chat. Hua Hin topics that don't really fit anywhere else.
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Re: Hua Hin Beach North of Chinese Temples to Cha-Am Report

Post by Kraka's Dad »

Yes thats it was viewing on my phone so it didnt look like it at first.
Did you take a photo of the blue roofed condo just south of the Dusit Thani?

:cheers:
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Re: Hua Hin Beach North of Chinese Temples to Cha-Am Report

Post by Big Boy »

When I walk, I photograph everything :wink:
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DSC04732_2.jpg
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Re: Hua Hin Beach North of Chinese Temples to Cha-Am Report

Post by Big Boy »

Here's another:
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Re: Hua Hin Beach North of Chinese Temples to Cha-Am Report

Post by Kraka's Dad »

Thats the one. We have an appartment there.

:cheers:
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Re: Hua Hin Beach North of Chinese Temples to Cha-Am Report

Post by Big Boy »

Part 6 – (Northern side of Army Exclusion Zone) Sai Yoi to Beach Garden Hotel

Once again, Google Maps and Google Earth have been my friend identifying my starting point. In fact my first photo is an extract from a Google Maps output showing an aerial view of an interesting feature. There are 2 of these within the restricted zone. Slightly North of the feature, you can see perimeter wall surrounding the restricted zone, which also had barbed wire as an added deterrent. As with the Southern end of the Restricted Zone, I did not want to enter this area as a foreigner taking photographs, even though there wasn’t anything to say that I couldn’t enter..
extract from a Google Maps output showing an aerial view of an interesting feature
extract from a Google Maps output showing an aerial view of an interesting feature
perimeter wall surrounding the restricted zone
perimeter wall surrounding the restricted zone
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barbed wire as an added deterrent
barbed wire as an added deterrent
DSC04937b.png (484.09 KiB) Viewed 767 times
I’d identified where the Restricted Zone ended, but there was absolutely nothing there for my wife to spend money on while I went for a walk, so I drove to Sai Yoi, and initially walked South to reach my starting point.

After being on millionaire’s row a couple of legs back, this was a complete contrast. Sai Yai looked to be a very poor fishing village. Many of the dwellings were very basic, with absolutely no home comforts. The Southern end of the beach at Sai Yoi had a bad smell. It reminded me of Camels Head Creek back in my hometown of Plymouth. Certainly not somewhere that you would want to swim.
Many of the dwellings were very basic
Many of the dwellings were very basic
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Many of the dwellings were very basic
Many of the dwellings were very basic
DSC04943b.png (406.21 KiB) Viewed 767 times
There were a few breakwaters just offshore, which could be walked to at low tide. In Sai Yai itself, a roadway had been built out to a breakwater, making it into a fishing jetty, an a place where small fishing boats could seek refuge during bad weather.
a few breakwaters just offshore
a few breakwaters just offshore
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a roadway had been built out to a breakwater, making it into a fishing jetty, an a place where small fishing boats could seek refuge during bad weather
a roadway had been built out to a breakwater, making it into a fishing jetty, an a place where small fishing boats could seek refuge during bad weather
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So, I’d set off South to the edge of the Restricted zone, and was back at my starting point, ready to travel North. The first half mile or so, saw me passing more poor fishermen’s dwellings.
more poor fishermen’s dwellings
more poor fishermen’s dwellings
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Gradually, the dwellings started to become a bit more substantial. I turned a corner, and a film crew were filming a movie in the grounds of the Buffy’s Belly Bar & Bistro (not sure if this was a real beach restaurant, or a temporary film set. Looking at the seating arrangement, it did not look permanent. However, this is Thailand and it is sometimes difficult to determine reality.
a film crew were filming a movie in the grounds of the Buffy’s Belly Bar & Bistro
a film crew were filming a movie in the grounds of the Buffy’s Belly Bar & Bistro
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Buffy’s Belly Bar & Bistro
Buffy’s Belly Bar & Bistro
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There was no sea wall as such along this stretch of the beach, but a few large boulders had been dumped here to break some waves. Erosion was quite a prominent here, and I reckon Thailand gets a little smaller with every storm.
no sea wall as such along this stretch of the beach
no sea wall as such along this stretch of the beach
I eventually reached the nicer resort/hotel/condo part of the beach, but the beach was still not suitable for walking on/bathing unless you wore shoes. There were loads of natural and not so natural hazards. This stretch of beach did not look as though it had been cleaned recently.
the beach was still not suitable for walking on/bathing unless you wore shoes
the beach was still not suitable for walking on/bathing unless you wore shoes
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the beach was still not suitable for walking on/bathing unless you wore shoes
the beach was still not suitable for walking on/bathing unless you wore shoes
As the resorts/hotels/condos came to prominence, so did the sea wall. However there was quite a bit of damage/erosion. On the theme of uncleaned beaches, there was actually one wall that had been damaged in a storm (the last storm I can remember was about 6 months ago). A notice had been put up warning that the state of the wall was dangerous, but nobody had cleared the fallen debris yet – I thought this was quite disgraceful, and tells me that the resorts/hotels/condos, despite occupying huge expanses of seafront, don’t care about anything beyond their property. I actually felt sorry for the few people who had obviously booked a beach hotel, and were trying to use the sea. It is a shame because these places employ large staffs, and if they switched their workforce to beach cleaning for a couple of days, they’d make a huge difference to the beach here.
quite a bit of damage/corrosion
quite a bit of damage/corrosion
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A notice had been put up warning that the state of the wall was dangerous, but nobody had cleared the fallen debris yet
A notice had been put up warning that the state of the wall was dangerous, but nobody had cleared the fallen debris yet
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There were quite a few beach bars/restaurants along this stretch, and also a few beach massage places.
quite a few beach bars/restaurants
quite a few beach bars/restaurants
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quite a few beach bars/restaurants
quite a few beach bars/restaurants
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As I got to the Regent, I came across a lot of small boats. I initially thought of the, ‘Why don’t we see sailing boats off Hua Hin’ thread, but then remembered Hua Hin Regatta had been held here until 2 days ago.
I came across a lot of small boats
I came across a lot of small boats
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I came across a lot of small boats
I came across a lot of small boats
After seeing a green flag flying on the last leg of my journey, I saw several red flags flying today. I must say, I couldn’t see why people shouldn’t swim (if they had shoes on) i.e. conditions seemed fine. I guess there must either be some unseen reason (strong currents?), or being Thailand, they couldn’t be bothered to change the flag.
I saw several red flags flying today
I saw several red flags flying today
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As I neared the end of my walk in a Northerly direction, I was very aware of thunder getting increasingly louder. I’d also reached a small river, which wasn’t difficult to cross yet, but the tide was coming in fast, so I ended this leg at the Beach Garden Hotel.
a small river, which wasn’t difficult to cross yet
a small river, which wasn’t difficult to cross yet
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I ended this leg at the Beach Garden Hotel
I ended this leg at the Beach Garden Hotel
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My walk back to the car was with a little apprehension because the water was rising quite rapidly, and I had visions of having to divert across country for part of my return leg, but thankfully, I beat the tide with just a little beach to spare in places.

To date, this stretch of beach was the one I’d disliked most on my journey to Cha-Am.

Watch this space for the next installment - Cha-Am Littleshop to Grand Condotel

More photos here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 718&type=1
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Re: Hua Hin Beach North of Chinese Temples to Cha-Am Report

Post by PeteC »

Some great photos and story yet again. :thumb:

I'm wondering about all this beach wall damage which is a consistent theme with each walk. I remember a thread on here about a very bad storm but don't remember if 2 or 3 years ago? Photos on it as well with waves pounding some wall somewhere in the Hua Hin area. I wonder if that same one storm did all this damage up and down the beach? Pete :cheers:
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Re: Hua Hin Beach North of Chinese Temples to Cha-Am Report

Post by Big Boy »

The big storm that I remember was last November? I think. Even if it was a couple of days ago, there's no excuse to leave the fallen masonry on the sand. this stuff is gradually getting covered by the sand, and is becoming a hidden hazard.

I guess the fact they needed sea walls in the first place confirms that somebody saw a potential problem, not least the fact that their valuable beach front land is eroding away.
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Re: Hua Hin Beach North of Chinese Temples to Cha-Am Report

Post by PeteC »

Yes indeed. My memory was way off on this one. It was November 2013.

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=25201&hilit=storm

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=25190&p=323925&hilit=storm#p323925
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Re: Hua Hin Beach North of Chinese Temples to Cha-Am Report

Post by TingTongJohn »

At this rate your going to end up in Pattaya and beyond. Enjoying your travel up the coast to Cha am. Keep up the photo walkabout. Excellent by the way.
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Re: Hua Hin Beach North of Chinese Temples to Cha-Am Report

Post by Stargeezer »

I would think that most of these big Resorts are bringing in lots of money, so why can't they spend a bit of their profits on keeping their beaches clean and fixing their sea walls when they get damaged.
I guess it is like most places where I have visited. Rich people hate to spend their own money.
Thanks for the great pictures Big Boy, I have stopped in a few places from North of Cha Am to
Hua Hin, and your pictures sure do bring back the memories.
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Re: Hua Hin Beach North of Chinese Temples to Cha-Am Report

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Part 7 – Cha-Am Littleshop to Grand Condotel

I found Cha-Am Littleshop on Google Earth, so it was easy to identify how to get to today’s start point. I had a new walking companion with me today (or at least, he hadn't walked with me since the climbs to the Phraya Nakhon Cave – today should be easier). We left my wife at Cha-Am Littleshop while we walked.

On my last report, I’d written, “I’d also reached a small river, which wasn’t difficult to cross yet.” We returned to the other side of the river to start today’s walk. The tide was out, so the river was a lake i.e. no route to the sea. This has been baffling me on a few legs of this walk, and I think I’ve got to the bottom of the mystery today. The streams/rivers are routed under the sand by pipes, allowing the sandbanks (natural sea walls) to remain in place as natural sea defences. The flow from the apparent lakes appear further down the beach. Man-made sea walls were almost non-existent now.
The tide was out, so the river was a lake
The tide was out, so the river was a lake
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the sandbanks (natural sea walls) to remain in place as natural sea defences
the sandbanks (natural sea walls) to remain in place as natural sea defences
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For a beach walker this was going to prove to be the ‘friendliest’ leg of the walk so far. The beach itself was a lot cleaner in front of the many resorts/condos/hotels, although there was still much room for improvement in many places.
The beach itself was a lot cleaner in front of the many resorts/condos/hotels, although there was still much room for improvement
The beach itself was a lot cleaner in front of the many resorts/condos/hotels, although there was still much room for improvement
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Most of the construction along this leg of my journey was modern and concrete, although we were shocked to see one condo that had so many visible cracks, it looked like crazy paving. However, it did look as if some level of repair had been carried out. This damage was apparent, and we were probably 100 yards away on the beach.
Most of the construction along this leg of my journey was modern and concrete
Most of the construction along this leg of my journey was modern and concrete
one condo that had so many visible cracks, it looked like crazy paving
one condo that had so many visible cracks, it looked like crazy paving
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We were passing what looked to be nice resorts/condos/hotels all along this stretch, and they all looked like great places to stay.
nice resorts/condos/hotels all along this stretch
nice resorts/condos/hotels all along this stretch
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nice resorts/condos/hotels all along this stretch
nice resorts/condos/hotels all along this stretch
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nice resorts/condos/hotels all along this stretch
nice resorts/condos/hotels all along this stretch
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Beach facilities were great.
Beach facilities were great.
Beach facilities were great.
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Beach facilities were great.
Beach facilities were great.
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There was an incredible line of beach massage businesses, which must have stretched over 100 metres. Also at this point the road moved between the beach and the beachside homes, so everything became easily accessible by car/motorcycle as well. Massage here was 100 Baht cheaper than other massage businesses encountered on this walk. The masseuses were very friendly trying to entice us in. In fact we received more compliments than I used to get walking through Soi Diamond in Pattaya during the 80s and 90s. This bit of beach was fun (probably a good job my wife was at Cha-Am Littleshop).
massage businesses
massage businesses
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As well as the massage places, we were starting to see beach bars and restaurants appearing, which were quite tempting in this heat. Then in front of us we could see the largest forest of beach umbrellas I’ve ever seen in a single cluster. This turned out to be a huge beach restaurant, and as far as we could see, there wasn’t an empty table, and it was frequented 100% by Thais. To give some idea of the size, it was 6 tables wide. Each of the substantial wooden tables (and wooden chairs) would seat at least 8 people. There must have been at least 20 tables lengthwise. That’s a seating capacity of almost 1,000 people. We made a note of this place, and agreed if it was that popular, we would have lunch there after our walk. Almost 2 hours later, we returned, and it was still heaving. We eventually found a table, and my wife and companion ordered loads of food (having a minimal stomach, and little desire to eat I ordered pork fried rice). Well, the helpings of each dish were huge – I was stuffed after eating less than half of mine. My wife and companion made a valiant effort, but doggy bags were the order of the day. We all agreed the food was lovely, and service was excellent. The bill for this feast was 820 Baht, which was nothing for the food we’d been served. We’ve made a note to come again.
a huge beach restaurant
a huge beach restaurant
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Back to the walk – there were quite a few people making use of the sea along here, but there were even more (I guess Burmese) digging huge trenches in search of small shellfish. They were having a lot of success, and we passed quite a few large jars.
a few people making use of the sea along here, but there were even more (I guess Burmese) digging huge trenches in search of small shellfish
a few people making use of the sea along here, but there were even more (I guess Burmese) digging huge trenches in search of small shellfish
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I guess the Burmese were from the Energy development, which is a huge blot on the landscape at the moment – I’m sure it’ll look better when it’s finished.
the Energy development
the Energy development
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We were now able to just about make out the white squid at the end of the fishing pier, so I reckon 2 or 3 more stages and my journey will be complete.

When researching today’s walk, I found an interesting entry on my map ‘Haunted House’. I was keeping a watch for this house, and came to the conclusion it had been raised to the ground – all that was there were 2 statues of swans, although it could have been the house with the green roof beyond. I’d love to know the story behind this entry on Google Earth, or is it just a scam to lower the cost of the land in that area?
‘Haunted House’
‘Haunted House’
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We then came across what looked like another millionaire’s row, where the houses wouldn’t have been out of place in Bel-Air. Then typically Thailand, at the end of millionaire’s row was the biggest collection of primitive fishermen’s huts I’d seen on this walk.
another millionaire’s row
another millionaire’s row
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DSC05094b.JPG
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another millionaire’s row
another millionaire’s row
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primitive fishermen’s huts
primitive fishermen’s huts
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We were still passing some nice condos, and decided our time was up when we’d reached the Grand Condotel. Although I did walk just a little further, and beside Grand Condotel is a failed project, just sat there rotting away.
failed project, just sat there rotting away
failed project, just sat there rotting away
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We now turned to do the journey back to the car, to collect my wife and try out the beach restaurant that we’d discovered.

In conclusion, this was the first part of this entire journey where it felt touristy. Until now, even the huge resorts/condos/hotels had been mainly behind failing sea defences. This at last felt like a place where people take their holidays.

Many more photos here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 718&type=1
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Re: Hua Hin Beach North of Chinese Temples to Cha-Am Report

Post by PeteC »

Hate to ask this as more work. :duck: Is there a quick map you could post with the walks numbered start - finish. Like A to B.............B to C etc. If not an easy job, forget it....just thought it would help others find the spots photographed. Pete :cheers:
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Re: Hua Hin Beach North of Chinese Temples to Cha-Am Report

Post by Big Boy »

I'll look into it - not easy until I've finished. I've got no walks in the bank currently. I'm not sure if its one or 2 more walks until I finish. You'll see from the last photo in the current set, Cha-Am is coming into sight.
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Re: Hua Hin Beach North of Chinese Temples to Cha-Am Report

Post by Frank La Rue »

I enjoy all of your trip reports BB, but somehow this one is the one I love the most. Maybe because I have had good times in Cha Am with family and look at the strech between Cha Am and HH as a future potential place to live.
I have the visual impression every year when I return to HH that there is more development on this stretch, Santorini, Swiss Farm (ok, ok techncally these are not on "The Stretch"), Venezia, new resorts, new housing developments. This commercialization is not for the taste of every long time HH expat but personally I like it.

I have enquired with real estate agents about the status of land ownership allong The Stretch and have been told that there are a few Thai families with positions in the military who own the land on The Stretch and that they release land for sale to real estate developers as it suits them. I.e., there is no given plan how to develop the area, its up to these owners.
It has puzzled me, as I think The Stretch between Cha Am and HH is one of the pieces of real state whith most underdeveloped commercial potential in the world.

The development of this can make it into the "Florida of Asia - Pacific". It requires a common strategy between authorities and major investors.


Are my "facts" right or wrong - comments anyone?
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Re: Hua Hin Beach North of Chinese Temples to Cha-Am Report

Post by Big Boy »

Part 8 - Grand Condotel to Cha-Am (the final journey)

Well, what can I say? I’ve saved the most boring stretch of beach in Thailand until the end.

I drove slightly North of Grand Condotel, and found myself turning into the road that I normally leave Cha-Am by. There 3 of us walking today. Pre-walk investigation via Google Earth suggested not very much to see along this stretch. However, the Google Earth images were captured in 2005, and I was sure new development would have taken place since then.

We walked South to our starting point, but the beach was pretty void of things to look at. In its favour, this was the cleanest stretch of beach since starting this journey several weeks ago. The tide was out, so there was plenty of room to walk.
We walked South to our starting point
We walked South to our starting point
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the cleanest stretch of beach since starting this journey several weeks ago
the cleanest stretch of beach since starting this journey several weeks ago
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There was the occasional condo built beyond the road, but generally it was either undeveloped land, or low level construction selling holiday tat or beach refreshments.
the occasional condo
the occasional condo
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the occasional condo
the occasional condo
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Above the beach, maybe 4 or 5 feet above the beach were beach umbrellas, deckchairs and sunbeds for hire. Today being midweek and low season, there were many voids, where more beach umbrellas, deckchairs and sunbeds would be available in busier times (I used one of these voids to park my car).
maybe 4 or 5 feet above the beach were beach umbrellas, deckchairs and sunbeds for hire
maybe 4 or 5 feet above the beach were beach umbrellas, deckchairs and sunbeds for hire
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The beach itself was deserted, with just the odd person hunting for mussels. We did, however, find dozens of dead locusts decorating quite a large area of the beach. I can only assume a swarm flew out to sea, and many didn’t make it, being washed up on Cha-Am beach. I often saw the occasional person venturing into the sea, but they had always exited by the time I was in photo range.
dozens of dead locusts
dozens of dead locusts
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There were a series of coloured flags on the beach, and a corresponding number in the same colour sequence out at sea. Does anybody know the purpose?
a series of coloured flags on the beach
a series of coloured flags on the beach
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We came across a permanently fixed fishing net. This area is used by holidaymakers, so it seemed a strange place to have such a permanent fixture. When I reflect back, there was a lot of remote beach that I’d walked on this journey, so why here?
a permanently fixed fishing net
a permanently fixed fishing net
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There was no sea wall along here, although a lot of boulders had been strategically placed along the more vulnerable stretches. Other stretches were build up with sandbags.
a lot of boulders had been strategically placed
a lot of boulders had been strategically placed
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Other stretches were build up with sandbags.
Other stretches were build up with sandbags.
DSC05818b.png (456.86 KiB) Viewed 521 times
As we reached the end of our journey (the Central Pier), beach umbrellas, deckchairs and sunbeds were starting to venture on to the beach.
beach umbrellas, deckchairs and sunbeds were starting to venture on to the beach
beach umbrellas, deckchairs and sunbeds were starting to venture on to the beach
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the Central Pier
the Central Pier
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We took advantage of the beach road on our journey back to the car.
the beach road
the beach road
DSC05821b.png (459.73 KiB) Viewed 521 times
the beach road
the beach road
DSC05825b.png (449.77 KiB) Viewed 521 times
Final installment in a couple of days time will be a summary of the journey, and I will try to include a map(s) showing each stage of this adventure.

More photos here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 718&type=1
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