What I love about HHAD it is well moderated
Catch a browse of this link on a Khon Kaen forum
http://www.khonkaen.com/english/forum/f ... 9400#29400
There some sick Bast***s around and this guy has to be one.
See my response to the post.
Does not do the Isaan farangs any favours at all who in the main try to blend into the Thai culture
Life in Isaan
Re: Life in Isaan
Well here is episode 3 and I hope it educates and entertains
Not all the photos will be embedded so I'll send in a follow up post
Expat living in Isaan village
Episode 3
Richard had problems embedding photos in the correct places. This has now been rectified by a moderator in the 5 edited posts below.
Not all the photos will be embedded so I'll send in a follow up post
Expat living in Isaan village
Episode 3
Richard had problems embedding photos in the correct places. This has now been rectified by a moderator in the 5 edited posts below.
RICHARD OF LOXLEY
It’s none of my business what people say and think of me. I am what I am and do what I do. I expect nothing and accept everything. It makes life so much easier.
It’s none of my business what people say and think of me. I am what I am and do what I do. I expect nothing and accept everything. It makes life so much easier.
Re: Life in Isaan
Well none of the bloody photos appeared
RICHARD OF LOXLEY
It’s none of my business what people say and think of me. I am what I am and do what I do. I expect nothing and accept everything. It makes life so much easier.
It’s none of my business what people say and think of me. I am what I am and do what I do. I expect nothing and accept everything. It makes life so much easier.
-
pharvey
- Moderator
- Posts: 15851
- Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 10:21 am
- Location: Sir Fynwy - God's Country
Re: Life in Isaan
You can do it through the "attach file" - but max of 3 per post.richard wrote:Well none of the bloody photos appeared
"Hope is a good thing, maybe the best of things" - Yma o Hyd.
Re: Life in Isaan
Well here is episode 3 and I hope it educates and entertains
Not all the photos will be embedded so I'll send in a follow up post
Expat living in Isaan village
Episode 3 - part 1 of 4
Well after a long break in Hua Hin to holiday with my daughters (Facebook is overloaded with pics and videos) I am now back in the village and have more tales to tell. Some of the tales relate to my last stay in the village.
Firstly though, I have to tell you my overall game plan is now in place. I rent a condo in Hua Hin and have a house in the village. 1 month in the village and then 2 months in Hua Hin. Some may think it strange and find it difficult how a Thai wife would tolerate such a situation. I am constantly questioned in Hua Hin. “where your wife? Why you not have another wife in Hua Hin?” Thais do not understand this and label a farang on his own as a lonely man. I have always wanted my space and don’t mean a few beers with the lads on a Friday or Saturday night. It has to be real break from routine. I have always been a nomad and every now and again I need a ‘walkabout’ OZ style.
Well the trip back to the village was an adventure in its own. Stayed my usual one night in my favourite guest house in Khon Kaen city and had a final farang blow out of cottage pie at Rockys. Took a couple of take aways for my stodgy cravings when on Isaan food in the village.
Awaited the family pick up and first stop was immigration for my 90 day report. 90 seconds and I’m on the road again. Not many there and if you have the paperwork ready it’s basically in, a stamp and out.
Off to Prison
So into the pickup with 2 or 3 family in the back and the next stop is Khon Kaen central prison. Prison you might say???? Well to see family of course. Yes one of the wife’s nephews is in prison for murder. Despite outwardly having polite and smiling faces, youngsters when they are pumped up with the booze and feeling virile will fight and that means slingshots, machetes, guns or clubs. The pictures you see about the Bangkok riots showing their range of weaponry is no idle threat. If needs be they will use them and I have seen it.
My step nephew is a bright lad and speaks good English which was self taught. Bright but also has a short fuse. He has had several jobs commanding good money both in Khon Kaen and Bangkok. He is also a womanizer and lost it on one occasion. He was doing his duty as a monk when his grandfather died and after coming out of the temple after 3 months found his latest girl had strayed. He tracked the man doing and beat him to death and got 15 years. Sound grim but it is something which is common place in the wilds.
So we arrive and I am trying to work out whether I can get some pics with my mobile but are warned not to try. First process is check what you have bought for him. All contents of tins are to taken out and put in polythene bags. No fruit on stalks. No cigarettes. All sensible security checks IMO. Money can be left to purchase just anything from the prison. All is logged and a receipt given which matches the one given to the inmate. Of course most food brought in is mums home cooked larb or the like.
Next is to queue to await being ushered into the interview room. Well organized and glass and bars separate the inmates from the visitors. A 2 way intercom is the only means of communication. Quite an experience. I sat and talked to Yod for a while and he was happy he only has a few more years to go as the King had granted many reductions of sentences on his Birthday. Yod described prison life to me in some detail. Sleep time was the worst part. Many to a cell and no room to turnover when sleeping and the toilet was a hole in the floor in the cell. If no food, medicine or ciggies were brought by relatives’ life was the absolute pits.
He has written to me several times saying he had realised the seriousness of his crime he had committed and repenting. If I could I would offer him a job providing he was a good boy. We do have a sort of special relationship as he and I converse in English and on my first visit to the village 6 years ago he took me out to Khon Kaen to eat and drink and mix with his friends.
Now off to the village. First stop will a market and shop to pick up some basics but what have we here?
Sang Sung roadblock
A police roadblock. In the villages many have motorbikes and pickups but no licenses, road tax or papers. They are quite safe in their villages and the dirt roads that connect small villages but venturing further afield is a risk. They learn to spot a roadblock or are given a signal by an oncoming driver and either stop and wait or descend into the bush on dirt roads.
We stopped and parked but I said I needed to get to the village and my western toilet so into the bush we went. Oh shit my camera is in my case and all I have is my mobile. The terrain is spectacular. Wild and barren in parts and the roads are narrow, steep and undulating. What seems like hours go by before we hit a real road having bypassed the roadblock.
Why roadblocks in small villages? Well the police here need tea money as well so at that time of the month looms they go out and block a road for a couple of hours. Of course some drivers get away with it as the police are family. On one occasion this happened to us. My driver was the headman from our village and as we were pulled up the police all wanted to shake my hand and said to the driver ‘Isaan farang come home?’ After some merriment and an exchange of some beers and Lao Khao I slipped them 100 Bht as a gesture of goodwill. Many of the faces I recognised from the village. On another occasion my driver was a village policeman so no problems.
Of course police roadblocks on the major roads are a different matter. On one occasion I was leaving the village for the airport so had a critical ETA. Well my unlicensed driver spotted a major road block going into Khon Kaen and hit the dirt. We had to get to the other side of Khon Kaen and we were doing it on dirt roads. Three times we tried to get onto the ring road but many roadblocks so back to the dirt. Now I’m beginning to panic about getting to the airport on time. I genuinely thought we were lost as several times we had to backtrack. All of a sudden there was the airport. Later I scoured the map of Khon Kaen and I guess we doubled our mileage. I never could fathom out the route.
Collect from the market and store and arrive at the village.
Bees
Well the bees are back. This is really weird
As all of you know Thais are great believers in superstition and lucky signs. Well my first long stay was interrupted by a bee hive relocating to our staircase landing. At about 1pm they would come out to swarm and then back to the hive after an hour. On one occasion I was in my hammock and a thoughtful but thoughtless Thai erected a fan to keep me cool. Unfortunately for me the fan was situated between me and the hive so as they came out to swarm they were suck in by the fan and blown directly on to me. 6 stings for me and a lot of mirth from the family. Well that was it for me and I shouted at the wife “they go or I go. Sort it” The next day the floorboards were up and the hive moved to the bush. I was told it was a mistake as it was good luck to have bees in your home.
Well that was not the end of it. When next returning to live in the village the bees arrived the day I did and set up residence. “Told you it was good luck” the wife said with a smile. When I left the bees left.
Well first thing to greet me upon my return for the third time were the bees who had moved back in the day I arrived.
Shivers down your spine type stuff Eh? Maybe it’s my farang BO!
Well the usual tale. Bog blocked, fans broken and shower caput and to crown it all the start of a 3 day rocket festival. Don’t these people ever stop celebrating?
The heat is tremendous and oppressive so I have reverted to a trick I learned in Africa. Soak a tee-shirt in cold water. Wring it out and wear it for a spell. Really chills the body. Got a pic of that somewhere. No good if you want to drive a car or motorbike though. In Hua Hin you have the benefit of a breeze. Here nothing but heat. However, just before a storm the winds arrive so the sequence is oppressive heat, dust storm and then torrential rain. Trying to keep a house or porch clean is virtually impossible
Food with the lads
Just arrived and of course the usual welcome from the women first to check my health and to see if I had put on weight. Really after a journey I just need a rest. Here impossible. Then the men come round and drag me off for some food and drink. Surrounded by fighting cocks we munch food and devour a bottle of whiskey. They chatter away and a couple speak English so it’s all pretty jovial. I dropped a question about the problems in Bangkok and asked how many supporters of the Reds were here. All hands shot up and I was informed they were ready to move to Bangkok when the word came. Talk about Daniel in the lion’s den. Was assured though that as an old farang this would not affect me
Rocket festival
Well this is to welcome the rains. Why it takes 3 days of blasting homemade ballistic missiles into the air and remaining drunk for three days I will never know. A couple of years back I was persuaded to have a rocket built for me and I could then enter the competition. The rocket maker arrived and commenced the construction. A piece of hollow bamboo about 5 foot long and 5 inches in diameter is packed full of explosive materials. After sealing and a 6 inch fuse has been attached it is bound to a 15 foot bamboo pole using bamboo fibres. Voila! You have a rocket which will launch into Thai airspace and threaten a wayward 747. Well the competition is fairly well organized. There is an official launch pad and you cannot ignite your homemade rocket. Objective? The rocket that goes highest gets a 1000 Bht . Well I was assured that mine was the winner. Funny how the local chief of police got first prize though!!!!
The rocket launching goes on all afternoons and the early evenings are spent celebrating. The first day is the worst though. The open-air disco starts at 9am and stops when the fighting starts.
The young lads in the village start drinking their Isaan brews at 7am and by the time they hit the dance floor at 11am are legless and looking for a fight. Three times whilst I attended the disco the crowds scattered, band semi packed up and village police stepped in with clubs. Amazing how women and children panic and leave the scene and I just sit there and video it. Maybe I’m the fool!!!!
Machete shave
There are times when western toiletries run out so one reverts to Thai village practice. Often wondered what guys do here for shaving. Well a bar of soap or some oil from some plant in the bush and a machete is the answer. Don’t fancy my chances bring that back to the UK with the excuse at customs that it’s my shaving gear
The adventure continues in Part 2 of 4 below
Not all the photos will be embedded so I'll send in a follow up post
Expat living in Isaan village
Episode 3 - part 1 of 4
Well after a long break in Hua Hin to holiday with my daughters (Facebook is overloaded with pics and videos) I am now back in the village and have more tales to tell. Some of the tales relate to my last stay in the village.
Firstly though, I have to tell you my overall game plan is now in place. I rent a condo in Hua Hin and have a house in the village. 1 month in the village and then 2 months in Hua Hin. Some may think it strange and find it difficult how a Thai wife would tolerate such a situation. I am constantly questioned in Hua Hin. “where your wife? Why you not have another wife in Hua Hin?” Thais do not understand this and label a farang on his own as a lonely man. I have always wanted my space and don’t mean a few beers with the lads on a Friday or Saturday night. It has to be real break from routine. I have always been a nomad and every now and again I need a ‘walkabout’ OZ style.
Well the trip back to the village was an adventure in its own. Stayed my usual one night in my favourite guest house in Khon Kaen city and had a final farang blow out of cottage pie at Rockys. Took a couple of take aways for my stodgy cravings when on Isaan food in the village.
Awaited the family pick up and first stop was immigration for my 90 day report. 90 seconds and I’m on the road again. Not many there and if you have the paperwork ready it’s basically in, a stamp and out.
Off to Prison
So into the pickup with 2 or 3 family in the back and the next stop is Khon Kaen central prison. Prison you might say???? Well to see family of course. Yes one of the wife’s nephews is in prison for murder. Despite outwardly having polite and smiling faces, youngsters when they are pumped up with the booze and feeling virile will fight and that means slingshots, machetes, guns or clubs. The pictures you see about the Bangkok riots showing their range of weaponry is no idle threat. If needs be they will use them and I have seen it.
My step nephew is a bright lad and speaks good English which was self taught. Bright but also has a short fuse. He has had several jobs commanding good money both in Khon Kaen and Bangkok. He is also a womanizer and lost it on one occasion. He was doing his duty as a monk when his grandfather died and after coming out of the temple after 3 months found his latest girl had strayed. He tracked the man doing and beat him to death and got 15 years. Sound grim but it is something which is common place in the wilds.
So we arrive and I am trying to work out whether I can get some pics with my mobile but are warned not to try. First process is check what you have bought for him. All contents of tins are to taken out and put in polythene bags. No fruit on stalks. No cigarettes. All sensible security checks IMO. Money can be left to purchase just anything from the prison. All is logged and a receipt given which matches the one given to the inmate. Of course most food brought in is mums home cooked larb or the like.
Next is to queue to await being ushered into the interview room. Well organized and glass and bars separate the inmates from the visitors. A 2 way intercom is the only means of communication. Quite an experience. I sat and talked to Yod for a while and he was happy he only has a few more years to go as the King had granted many reductions of sentences on his Birthday. Yod described prison life to me in some detail. Sleep time was the worst part. Many to a cell and no room to turnover when sleeping and the toilet was a hole in the floor in the cell. If no food, medicine or ciggies were brought by relatives’ life was the absolute pits.
He has written to me several times saying he had realised the seriousness of his crime he had committed and repenting. If I could I would offer him a job providing he was a good boy. We do have a sort of special relationship as he and I converse in English and on my first visit to the village 6 years ago he took me out to Khon Kaen to eat and drink and mix with his friends.
Now off to the village. First stop will a market and shop to pick up some basics but what have we here?
Sang Sung roadblock
A police roadblock. In the villages many have motorbikes and pickups but no licenses, road tax or papers. They are quite safe in their villages and the dirt roads that connect small villages but venturing further afield is a risk. They learn to spot a roadblock or are given a signal by an oncoming driver and either stop and wait or descend into the bush on dirt roads.
We stopped and parked but I said I needed to get to the village and my western toilet so into the bush we went. Oh shit my camera is in my case and all I have is my mobile. The terrain is spectacular. Wild and barren in parts and the roads are narrow, steep and undulating. What seems like hours go by before we hit a real road having bypassed the roadblock.
Why roadblocks in small villages? Well the police here need tea money as well so at that time of the month looms they go out and block a road for a couple of hours. Of course some drivers get away with it as the police are family. On one occasion this happened to us. My driver was the headman from our village and as we were pulled up the police all wanted to shake my hand and said to the driver ‘Isaan farang come home?’ After some merriment and an exchange of some beers and Lao Khao I slipped them 100 Bht as a gesture of goodwill. Many of the faces I recognised from the village. On another occasion my driver was a village policeman so no problems.
Of course police roadblocks on the major roads are a different matter. On one occasion I was leaving the village for the airport so had a critical ETA. Well my unlicensed driver spotted a major road block going into Khon Kaen and hit the dirt. We had to get to the other side of Khon Kaen and we were doing it on dirt roads. Three times we tried to get onto the ring road but many roadblocks so back to the dirt. Now I’m beginning to panic about getting to the airport on time. I genuinely thought we were lost as several times we had to backtrack. All of a sudden there was the airport. Later I scoured the map of Khon Kaen and I guess we doubled our mileage. I never could fathom out the route.
Collect from the market and store and arrive at the village.
Bees
Well the bees are back. This is really weird
As all of you know Thais are great believers in superstition and lucky signs. Well my first long stay was interrupted by a bee hive relocating to our staircase landing. At about 1pm they would come out to swarm and then back to the hive after an hour. On one occasion I was in my hammock and a thoughtful but thoughtless Thai erected a fan to keep me cool. Unfortunately for me the fan was situated between me and the hive so as they came out to swarm they were suck in by the fan and blown directly on to me. 6 stings for me and a lot of mirth from the family. Well that was it for me and I shouted at the wife “they go or I go. Sort it” The next day the floorboards were up and the hive moved to the bush. I was told it was a mistake as it was good luck to have bees in your home.
Well that was not the end of it. When next returning to live in the village the bees arrived the day I did and set up residence. “Told you it was good luck” the wife said with a smile. When I left the bees left.
Well first thing to greet me upon my return for the third time were the bees who had moved back in the day I arrived.
Shivers down your spine type stuff Eh? Maybe it’s my farang BO!
Well the usual tale. Bog blocked, fans broken and shower caput and to crown it all the start of a 3 day rocket festival. Don’t these people ever stop celebrating?
The heat is tremendous and oppressive so I have reverted to a trick I learned in Africa. Soak a tee-shirt in cold water. Wring it out and wear it for a spell. Really chills the body. Got a pic of that somewhere. No good if you want to drive a car or motorbike though. In Hua Hin you have the benefit of a breeze. Here nothing but heat. However, just before a storm the winds arrive so the sequence is oppressive heat, dust storm and then torrential rain. Trying to keep a house or porch clean is virtually impossible
Just arrived and of course the usual welcome from the women first to check my health and to see if I had put on weight. Really after a journey I just need a rest. Here impossible. Then the men come round and drag me off for some food and drink. Surrounded by fighting cocks we munch food and devour a bottle of whiskey. They chatter away and a couple speak English so it’s all pretty jovial. I dropped a question about the problems in Bangkok and asked how many supporters of the Reds were here. All hands shot up and I was informed they were ready to move to Bangkok when the word came. Talk about Daniel in the lion’s den. Was assured though that as an old farang this would not affect me
Rocket festival
Well this is to welcome the rains. Why it takes 3 days of blasting homemade ballistic missiles into the air and remaining drunk for three days I will never know. A couple of years back I was persuaded to have a rocket built for me and I could then enter the competition. The rocket maker arrived and commenced the construction. A piece of hollow bamboo about 5 foot long and 5 inches in diameter is packed full of explosive materials. After sealing and a 6 inch fuse has been attached it is bound to a 15 foot bamboo pole using bamboo fibres. Voila! You have a rocket which will launch into Thai airspace and threaten a wayward 747. Well the competition is fairly well organized. There is an official launch pad and you cannot ignite your homemade rocket. Objective? The rocket that goes highest gets a 1000 Bht . Well I was assured that mine was the winner. Funny how the local chief of police got first prize though!!!!
The rocket launching goes on all afternoons and the early evenings are spent celebrating. The first day is the worst though. The open-air disco starts at 9am and stops when the fighting starts.
The young lads in the village start drinking their Isaan brews at 7am and by the time they hit the dance floor at 11am are legless and looking for a fight. Three times whilst I attended the disco the crowds scattered, band semi packed up and village police stepped in with clubs. Amazing how women and children panic and leave the scene and I just sit there and video it. Maybe I’m the fool!!!!
There are times when western toiletries run out so one reverts to Thai village practice. Often wondered what guys do here for shaving. Well a bar of soap or some oil from some plant in the bush and a machete is the answer. Don’t fancy my chances bring that back to the UK with the excuse at customs that it’s my shaving gear
RICHARD OF LOXLEY
It’s none of my business what people say and think of me. I am what I am and do what I do. I expect nothing and accept everything. It makes life so much easier.
It’s none of my business what people say and think of me. I am what I am and do what I do. I expect nothing and accept everything. It makes life so much easier.
Re: Life in Isaan
Well here is episode 3 and I hope it educates and entertains
Not all the photos will be embedded so I'll send in a follow up post
Expat living in Isaan village
Episode 3 - part 2 of 4
Snake blood
Something I’ve not mention in previous articles is Snake blood. Did it in Bangkok about 9 years ago but here it is common place in the village. Snakes are caught and kept in a sack and then extracted (still alive) and hung by their jaws to a sort of portable coat rail. A very sharp knife is then used to skin the snake (still alive). Then its guts are removed and the blood drained into a glass with the addition of its reproductive organs crushed up. This is then mixed with Lao Khao and honey and passed round. Apparently a wonderful aphrodisiac . The snake (still alive) is then chopped up and deep fried and tastes delicious. The art of the cooking is to make sure the snake is still moving when it hits your plate
The Thai toilet
Well this really relates to my journey back to Hua Hin after my last stay at the village. The village had been reaping the rice harvest and at the close of the day that means food and drink to celebrate. Fine, but the food is mainly raw meat with sticky rice and a chili dip. All washed down with lao khow. After 3 days of this I thought I might have bowel problems but not so. Embarked on my trip back to Hua Hin and all was well at the airports and in the air.
Now most of you know that traditionally Thais eat, handle money and other things with their right hand and the left hand is for cleaning ones anus in the toilet. Things are changing and western toilets with loo rolls are more frequent now but most have a bum squirter for those who prefer a cold blast up the bum.
Well my car arrives at the airport and away we go to Hua Hin. Oh dear . Rumblings afoot. OK I can last until the next petrol station. No, no, no, no. Frantic pleas to the driver to find a loo. None on the road for 15 kms he says. I say “Do you want a mess and a nasty smell in your nice car?” Quick maneuver and we are down a side street and into a broken down old garage with a loo of sorts. Oh relief. Hang on, no loo paper and no bum squirter. Oh well time to learn a bit more about Thai culture. The details I will leave to your imagination. Now I know why many young Thais travel with a toilet roll in their back pocket.
Schools
Well a village school here is a joke by western standards. Many of the children are retarded and can intake the basic teachings but struggle with maths and reading and writing. This is also aggravated by attendance figures. When the rice and cane are to be sown or reaped the families expect their children to help. Consequently many children leave school at an early age with very little knowledge.
Many are condemned to village life and working the fields and can hardly read or write Thai. At home they don’t even speak Thai. Laos/Thai instead. Not being able to read their only intake of news is the 6am propaganda messages broadcast across the village from speakers. It’s easy to see why the peasant population has been kept down. Little knowledge means no conflict and priorities are based on family and village needs. The current upsurge in the peasants vs the elite situation though shows that this generation of Thais are becoming more aware of their dire situation. Media may be reason. All households have a TV and therefore have access to what is going on in the rest of Thailand. Those that are able to leave the village and venture to Bangkok bump into reality and bring tales back to the village
Dan
In my previous articles I have spoken of Dan. A special kid to me because of his constant happy smile providing there was food around. My last comments were about his ghastly injury when he fell off the back of a motorbike. Fortunately the wound has healed.
Alas he smiles no more. Now weighing in at nearly 30 kilos and still only 8 years old he has become the victim of ridicule. Everybody pokes him and laughs at him which he was able to take a couple of years ago, but now he rejects it and the villagers don’t realise they are hurting him. Nothing I can do though. I’m a farang and know nothing.
At the rocket festival disco he came and sat next to me. Not the usual Dan who used to take great delight in charging into me and bowling me over. He was subdued and sat with his food and a balloon with a frown on his face. People still kept coming up and pinching his cheeks and patting his round belly and the look on his face said it all. The lad has gone from being extrovert and happy go lucky to introvert and withdrawn. His parents who I know well (family of course) don’t understand and just laugh. His elder brother and his male counterparts are running around and hunting in the bush at night and he can’t. The girls all joke about the size of his willie as it is disproportionate to his mass. Poor little big man.
Howchow Castle
So when I get fed up with it all where do I go? Many in my situation go by bus to Khon Kaen city for a couple of days but KKC has lost its glitter and the bars are vacant. However I am lucky. 10 kms away is a small town called Kranuan.
Typical small Isaan town. Noodle stalls, a market, stores and the like. However some years back trundling through the backstreets I came across a castle. A castle in the wilds of Isaan???. Howchow castle or Castle Howard? Inside the place was lavish and the biggest swimming pool I have ever seen surrounded by chalets. This is an oasis in Isaan. The owner, Howard, is a Lancastrian and a very nice guy. Customers come up from KK to chill or have a conference but many farangs there too. Google it and see the full scene. Even got a beach!!!!
Cane and rice
Well it’s activity time. All hands to the pumps. Harvesting rice and sugarcane has to be the most back breaking job on the planet. 12 hours a day in sweltering heat cutting and earning on piece work for a few Bht a day. A young fit guy will maybe earn 150 to 200 Bht a day. Everyone chips in and it seems enjoy it. It does I suppose, mean money in the bank, food on the table. I tried cutting cane and lasted 15 minutes. I didn’t get paid!!!!
The rice is cut, threshed, bagged and then stored in the barn (every house has one). When the price is right they take it to the local rice baron and collect their meager sum.
The adventure (including more photos of rice and cane) continues in Part 3 of 4
Not all the photos will be embedded so I'll send in a follow up post
Expat living in Isaan village
Episode 3 - part 2 of 4
Snake blood
Something I’ve not mention in previous articles is Snake blood. Did it in Bangkok about 9 years ago but here it is common place in the village. Snakes are caught and kept in a sack and then extracted (still alive) and hung by their jaws to a sort of portable coat rail. A very sharp knife is then used to skin the snake (still alive). Then its guts are removed and the blood drained into a glass with the addition of its reproductive organs crushed up. This is then mixed with Lao Khao and honey and passed round. Apparently a wonderful aphrodisiac . The snake (still alive) is then chopped up and deep fried and tastes delicious. The art of the cooking is to make sure the snake is still moving when it hits your plate
The Thai toilet
Well this really relates to my journey back to Hua Hin after my last stay at the village. The village had been reaping the rice harvest and at the close of the day that means food and drink to celebrate. Fine, but the food is mainly raw meat with sticky rice and a chili dip. All washed down with lao khow. After 3 days of this I thought I might have bowel problems but not so. Embarked on my trip back to Hua Hin and all was well at the airports and in the air.
Now most of you know that traditionally Thais eat, handle money and other things with their right hand and the left hand is for cleaning ones anus in the toilet. Things are changing and western toilets with loo rolls are more frequent now but most have a bum squirter for those who prefer a cold blast up the bum.
Well my car arrives at the airport and away we go to Hua Hin. Oh dear . Rumblings afoot. OK I can last until the next petrol station. No, no, no, no. Frantic pleas to the driver to find a loo. None on the road for 15 kms he says. I say “Do you want a mess and a nasty smell in your nice car?” Quick maneuver and we are down a side street and into a broken down old garage with a loo of sorts. Oh relief. Hang on, no loo paper and no bum squirter. Oh well time to learn a bit more about Thai culture. The details I will leave to your imagination. Now I know why many young Thais travel with a toilet roll in their back pocket.
Schools
Well a village school here is a joke by western standards. Many of the children are retarded and can intake the basic teachings but struggle with maths and reading and writing. This is also aggravated by attendance figures. When the rice and cane are to be sown or reaped the families expect their children to help. Consequently many children leave school at an early age with very little knowledge.
Many are condemned to village life and working the fields and can hardly read or write Thai. At home they don’t even speak Thai. Laos/Thai instead. Not being able to read their only intake of news is the 6am propaganda messages broadcast across the village from speakers. It’s easy to see why the peasant population has been kept down. Little knowledge means no conflict and priorities are based on family and village needs. The current upsurge in the peasants vs the elite situation though shows that this generation of Thais are becoming more aware of their dire situation. Media may be reason. All households have a TV and therefore have access to what is going on in the rest of Thailand. Those that are able to leave the village and venture to Bangkok bump into reality and bring tales back to the village
Dan
In my previous articles I have spoken of Dan. A special kid to me because of his constant happy smile providing there was food around. My last comments were about his ghastly injury when he fell off the back of a motorbike. Fortunately the wound has healed.
Alas he smiles no more. Now weighing in at nearly 30 kilos and still only 8 years old he has become the victim of ridicule. Everybody pokes him and laughs at him which he was able to take a couple of years ago, but now he rejects it and the villagers don’t realise they are hurting him. Nothing I can do though. I’m a farang and know nothing.
At the rocket festival disco he came and sat next to me. Not the usual Dan who used to take great delight in charging into me and bowling me over. He was subdued and sat with his food and a balloon with a frown on his face. People still kept coming up and pinching his cheeks and patting his round belly and the look on his face said it all. The lad has gone from being extrovert and happy go lucky to introvert and withdrawn. His parents who I know well (family of course) don’t understand and just laugh. His elder brother and his male counterparts are running around and hunting in the bush at night and he can’t. The girls all joke about the size of his willie as it is disproportionate to his mass. Poor little big man.
So when I get fed up with it all where do I go? Many in my situation go by bus to Khon Kaen city for a couple of days but KKC has lost its glitter and the bars are vacant. However I am lucky. 10 kms away is a small town called Kranuan.
Typical small Isaan town. Noodle stalls, a market, stores and the like. However some years back trundling through the backstreets I came across a castle. A castle in the wilds of Isaan???. Howchow castle or Castle Howard? Inside the place was lavish and the biggest swimming pool I have ever seen surrounded by chalets. This is an oasis in Isaan. The owner, Howard, is a Lancastrian and a very nice guy. Customers come up from KK to chill or have a conference but many farangs there too. Google it and see the full scene. Even got a beach!!!!
Well it’s activity time. All hands to the pumps. Harvesting rice and sugarcane has to be the most back breaking job on the planet. 12 hours a day in sweltering heat cutting and earning on piece work for a few Bht a day. A young fit guy will maybe earn 150 to 200 Bht a day. Everyone chips in and it seems enjoy it. It does I suppose, mean money in the bank, food on the table. I tried cutting cane and lasted 15 minutes. I didn’t get paid!!!!
The rice is cut, threshed, bagged and then stored in the barn (every house has one). When the price is right they take it to the local rice baron and collect their meager sum.
RICHARD OF LOXLEY
It’s none of my business what people say and think of me. I am what I am and do what I do. I expect nothing and accept everything. It makes life so much easier.
It’s none of my business what people say and think of me. I am what I am and do what I do. I expect nothing and accept everything. It makes life so much easier.
Re: Life in Isaan
Well here is episode 3 and I hope it educates and entertains
Not all the photos will be embedded so I'll send in a follow up post
Expat living in Isaan village
Episode 3 - part 3 of 4
This adventure contines in Part 4 of 4 below
Not all the photos will be embedded so I'll send in a follow up post
Expat living in Isaan village
Episode 3 - part 3 of 4
This adventure contines in Part 4 of 4 below
RICHARD OF LOXLEY
It’s none of my business what people say and think of me. I am what I am and do what I do. I expect nothing and accept everything. It makes life so much easier.
It’s none of my business what people say and think of me. I am what I am and do what I do. I expect nothing and accept everything. It makes life so much easier.
Re: Life in Isaan
Well here is episode 3 and I hope it educates and entertains
Not all the photos will be embedded so I'll send in a follow up post
Expat living in Isaan village
Episode 3 - part 4 of 4
The cane is cut and bound into bundles which are then loaded onto trucks to take to the sugar refineries. The roads at that time of the year are chock a block with cane wagons.
Of course after a hard day in the fields it’s time to party. See my paragraph on Thai toilets. Work hard and play hard. At times people comment on how lazy Thais are. Yes when there is no work for sure. Sowing and harvesting are seasonal. In between is basically an existence until the next sow/reap time. Of course there are alternative things to do. Rear chicken, tend the cows and buffalos, make charcoal, weave baskets and mats, hunt during the night and sell on the roadside but for a paltry sum at the end of the day
Family rows
Well I have posted on forums and gone to print about how family orientated Thais are. Bit like we were in the UK 50 years ago. They are very close knit and at the top of the tree is PAPA. That is why one as a farang should not get worried about being called Papa by a bar girl or friend. Several times farangs have said to me “they are calling me an old man”. Not true. They are merely saying ‘I give you the same respect as my father’. I digress
However, squabbles do arise. I have a step niece who has been ostracized because although she was working and earning money to send home refused to go back for a funeral. Marriage splits occur and sides are taken. All playground stuff. Playground? Yeah, that’s how you have to treat it. At times they can display playground actions we knew in the western world. Take it or leave it
Cock fights
Well they exist and I should know as I have 10 prize cocks grazing in my garden. The fights are more humane than those I’ve seen in Africa and the UK. For a start there are no razor blades attached to their talons and the fight is not to the kill. The first bird to hit the dust stunned is deemed to be the loser. Gambling illegal in Thailand? Ha ha. Big money changes hands at a cock fight
Farang exit vibes
I get the distinct impression when I leave the village that they think I have gone for good. The atmosphere is tense. Maybe my imagination but it is uncanny and then I think, Hey they live for today not tomorrow and they take life in their stride. It’s a well know fact that the two word a Thai does not want to hear are maybe and tomorrow
When I get back to Bangkok or Hua Hin my perception of the girls working the bars has changed. I’ve seen and lived in their villages. They have made a stride to better themselves and earn money for the family and the comparison in living conditions is vast. May seem odd to us that renting out your body is an acceptable way of life but they have few options. No good education and you need a piece of paper here to get a job in a shop. Rice paddys for life or branch out and rent it out whilst you can. Who knows, they might catch a rich and generous farang!!!!!!!
Another thing I have noticed is say a couple of Lao/Thai words to them and a barrier comes down and you are immediately greeted with wider smiles. They now know you have been to Isaan and know their plight and know REAL Thailand
Times they are a changing
Things are changing as they do but the biggest thing about what is happening here in the village is the return of many young people who had left to make money in Bangkok, Hua Hin, Pattaya, Phuket, Samui which are all now feeling the pinch. Construction slowed, bar scene melting and so on. Even in the village now there are no noodle stalls. Wife’s packed up as no customers. Vendors have disappeared. Pickups are loading up to go and get work in the factories in Khon Kaen for 150 Bht for a 12 hour day. Up at 5am home at 9pm
It’s back to the land and hunting but the cane and rice have been harvested and that money earner is in suspension until the next sow/reap period. Hence the boxing as mentioned in the festival party. Beggars now abound and it is no longer the village I knew several years back. I’m now getting spongers all day and Thai woman asking me how to find a farang to take care of them. Many of the youths are resorting to moving to Bangkok in droves to join the Reds but in desperation. Maybe there is a financial reward for doing so.
In a complete contrast to local noodle stalls and stores closing the local largish town is prospering. Went to Kranuan to go to the market and 711 to buy a few essentials only to find half the market has closed and oh my Gawd a new Tesco Lotus has arrived. It was packed and of course offers a greater variety of goods albeit more expensive but attractive to Thais with a few Bht in their pocket. Yet another divide has been created. Some villagers have money some none. For those with none their noodle stalls and village shops have gone
Conditions now
No power so no internet connection, no fans and temperatures in the high 30s with no breeze. The Thais will survive as this is how they grew up. This aging farang needs to get back to Hua Hin but all channels blocked so it’s a case of sweating it out literally. What is a stupid old aged infirmed farang doing here? Well I’m still learning and not stagnating
Oh well in true Thai style ‘live for today’ WGAS about tomorrow
Well that’s all for now. Plans now are to get back to Hua Hin to avoid the current conflict. Much ,much more in the coffers so I will work on episode 4 if you want.
Cheers
Richard
The 4 Part adventure ends here ............ or does it?
Not all the photos will be embedded so I'll send in a follow up post
Expat living in Isaan village
Episode 3 - part 4 of 4
The cane is cut and bound into bundles which are then loaded onto trucks to take to the sugar refineries. The roads at that time of the year are chock a block with cane wagons.
- Preparing the raw meat with spices (600 x 450).jpg (57.86 KiB) Viewed 714 times
- Preparing the raw meat with spices (600 x 450).jpg (57.86 KiB) Viewed 714 times
Well I have posted on forums and gone to print about how family orientated Thais are. Bit like we were in the UK 50 years ago. They are very close knit and at the top of the tree is PAPA. That is why one as a farang should not get worried about being called Papa by a bar girl or friend. Several times farangs have said to me “they are calling me an old man”. Not true. They are merely saying ‘I give you the same respect as my father’. I digress
However, squabbles do arise. I have a step niece who has been ostracized because although she was working and earning money to send home refused to go back for a funeral. Marriage splits occur and sides are taken. All playground stuff. Playground? Yeah, that’s how you have to treat it. At times they can display playground actions we knew in the western world. Take it or leave it
Cock fights
Well they exist and I should know as I have 10 prize cocks grazing in my garden. The fights are more humane than those I’ve seen in Africa and the UK. For a start there are no razor blades attached to their talons and the fight is not to the kill. The first bird to hit the dust stunned is deemed to be the loser. Gambling illegal in Thailand? Ha ha. Big money changes hands at a cock fight
Farang exit vibes
I get the distinct impression when I leave the village that they think I have gone for good. The atmosphere is tense. Maybe my imagination but it is uncanny and then I think, Hey they live for today not tomorrow and they take life in their stride. It’s a well know fact that the two word a Thai does not want to hear are maybe and tomorrow
When I get back to Bangkok or Hua Hin my perception of the girls working the bars has changed. I’ve seen and lived in their villages. They have made a stride to better themselves and earn money for the family and the comparison in living conditions is vast. May seem odd to us that renting out your body is an acceptable way of life but they have few options. No good education and you need a piece of paper here to get a job in a shop. Rice paddys for life or branch out and rent it out whilst you can. Who knows, they might catch a rich and generous farang!!!!!!!
Another thing I have noticed is say a couple of Lao/Thai words to them and a barrier comes down and you are immediately greeted with wider smiles. They now know you have been to Isaan and know their plight and know REAL Thailand
Times they are a changing
Things are changing as they do but the biggest thing about what is happening here in the village is the return of many young people who had left to make money in Bangkok, Hua Hin, Pattaya, Phuket, Samui which are all now feeling the pinch. Construction slowed, bar scene melting and so on. Even in the village now there are no noodle stalls. Wife’s packed up as no customers. Vendors have disappeared. Pickups are loading up to go and get work in the factories in Khon Kaen for 150 Bht for a 12 hour day. Up at 5am home at 9pm
It’s back to the land and hunting but the cane and rice have been harvested and that money earner is in suspension until the next sow/reap period. Hence the boxing as mentioned in the festival party. Beggars now abound and it is no longer the village I knew several years back. I’m now getting spongers all day and Thai woman asking me how to find a farang to take care of them. Many of the youths are resorting to moving to Bangkok in droves to join the Reds but in desperation. Maybe there is a financial reward for doing so.
In a complete contrast to local noodle stalls and stores closing the local largish town is prospering. Went to Kranuan to go to the market and 711 to buy a few essentials only to find half the market has closed and oh my Gawd a new Tesco Lotus has arrived. It was packed and of course offers a greater variety of goods albeit more expensive but attractive to Thais with a few Bht in their pocket. Yet another divide has been created. Some villagers have money some none. For those with none their noodle stalls and village shops have gone
Conditions now
No power so no internet connection, no fans and temperatures in the high 30s with no breeze. The Thais will survive as this is how they grew up. This aging farang needs to get back to Hua Hin but all channels blocked so it’s a case of sweating it out literally. What is a stupid old aged infirmed farang doing here? Well I’m still learning and not stagnating
Oh well in true Thai style ‘live for today’ WGAS about tomorrow
Well that’s all for now. Plans now are to get back to Hua Hin to avoid the current conflict. Much ,much more in the coffers so I will work on episode 4 if you want.
Cheers
Richard
The 4 Part adventure ends here ............ or does it?
RICHARD OF LOXLEY
It’s none of my business what people say and think of me. I am what I am and do what I do. I expect nothing and accept everything. It makes life so much easier.
It’s none of my business what people say and think of me. I am what I am and do what I do. I expect nothing and accept everything. It makes life so much easier.
Re: Life in Isaan
Well here is episode 3 and I hope it educates and entertains
Not all the photos will be embedded so I'll send in a follow up post
Expat living in Isaan village
Episode 3 - supplement (photo of fighting cock was out of order)
Cock fights
Well they exist and I should know as I have 10 prize cocks grazing in my garden. The fights are more humane than those I’ve seen in Africa and the UK. For a start there are no razor blades attached to their talons and the fight is not to the kill. The first bird to hit the dust stunned is deemed to be the loser. Gambling illegal in Thailand? Ha ha. Big money changes hands at a cock fight
Not all the photos will be embedded so I'll send in a follow up post
Expat living in Isaan village
Episode 3 - supplement (photo of fighting cock was out of order)
Cock fights
Well they exist and I should know as I have 10 prize cocks grazing in my garden. The fights are more humane than those I’ve seen in Africa and the UK. For a start there are no razor blades attached to their talons and the fight is not to the kill. The first bird to hit the dust stunned is deemed to be the loser. Gambling illegal in Thailand? Ha ha. Big money changes hands at a cock fight
RICHARD OF LOXLEY
It’s none of my business what people say and think of me. I am what I am and do what I do. I expect nothing and accept everything. It makes life so much easier.
It’s none of my business what people say and think of me. I am what I am and do what I do. I expect nothing and accept everything. It makes life so much easier.
Re: Life in Isaan
Well there you go
There must be a simpler way of doing it. any ideas?????
There must be a simpler way of doing it. any ideas?????
RICHARD OF LOXLEY
It’s none of my business what people say and think of me. I am what I am and do what I do. I expect nothing and accept everything. It makes life so much easier.
It’s none of my business what people say and think of me. I am what I am and do what I do. I expect nothing and accept everything. It makes life so much easier.
Re: Life in Isaan
Good pics Richard.
Re: Life in Isaan
Thanks Baa Baa. Bum camera, bum mobile and bum photographer. The good ones were taken by the wife Baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
RICHARD OF LOXLEY
It’s none of my business what people say and think of me. I am what I am and do what I do. I expect nothing and accept everything. It makes life so much easier.
It’s none of my business what people say and think of me. I am what I am and do what I do. I expect nothing and accept everything. It makes life so much easier.
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Randy Cornhole
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Re: Life in Isaan
How Randy?
I'm not too bright with modern technology
I'm not too bright with modern technology
RICHARD OF LOXLEY
It’s none of my business what people say and think of me. I am what I am and do what I do. I expect nothing and accept everything. It makes life so much easier.
It’s none of my business what people say and think of me. I am what I am and do what I do. I expect nothing and accept everything. It makes life so much easier.
