Down the Sai gon River to Vung Tau

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Jimbob
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Down the Sai gon River to Vung Tau

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I had been in Ho Chi Minh City for a couple of days tramping around its Ben Thanh markets, Unification palace etc. The Standard tourist stuff. My family and friends planned a trip the next day to the Mekong delta but I declined to join them, instead deciding to just do a few things by the river. The thought of riding for a day in a mini bus, stopping at obligatory cafes and tourist stalls was not attractive. I often like to just walk the other side of everything, not be herded around all day.

After breakfast with a quick stroll it was down to the Sai Gon river front and the Thu Theim shuttle ferry to what westerners might call slums. For 500 Dong (20 cents) I was on the shuttle ferry but my God, it had hundreds of motor scooters and bikes filling the drive-on deck but no cars. A cavalry charge of blue smoking bikes raced off the ferry as I and a couple of other passengers waited to walk off the ferry. Thu Theim is not a tourist destination. A few hawkers approached me half-expectantly of trade: Well, I was the only westerner in sight. I spent an hour wandering the Thu Theim lanes 'observing' and looking at the local Mayahana Buddhist shrines, Down a narrow path between houses I went to look around when a voice sung out , 'Hello, where are you from'? Uh oh. However it was just a friendly guy, in front of his small lean-to, no sales pitch, so I chatted for a while. He said people choose to live this side of the river because it’s cheap and is a safe community. Compared to the city it was very peaceful. Back to the ferry and while on board a mechanic came over to me and chatted to practice English. Yes, he had fought in the war but that was the past. What a joy just to chat and this only.
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Further down the river is the Green Line Hydrofoil ferry terminal to Vung Tau and so I took the 09:00 trip for 140,000 dong ($10). The Russian made hydrofoils have had better days. Westerners were segregated into the front of the enclosed craft so they had better views: commuters were at the back where they could snooze.
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The trip time is 90 mins, going down the twisting river and its various international shipping docks for every type of ship including cruise ships. For much of the distance the river banks are blanketed in mangrove jungle. I could imagine the Viet Cong taking ‘pot shots’ at American gunboats from jungle cover. We glided under the impressive construction of the Phu My bridge which at that time was unfinished.
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At the river mouth I could see that on the seaward horizon many oil rigs. Interestingly, besides being Ho Chi Minh City's coastal weekender town, Vung Tau also services the nearby oil rigs, and as it's the richest town in Vietnam.
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Once the hydrofoil docked at Vung Tau wharf, as expected, I was mobbed by Tee shirt sellers and motorbike taxis. I then No, No'ed my way across the road to...’ the Ned Kelly Bar’ for an acceptable 555 local beer while things quietened down. The Ned Kelly is run by a Brit who would have looked just as happy in a Benidorm or Phuket pub: holding court with some oil workers. The window seat was occupied by a 40 something bulky Englishman with shaved head and tats and that air of boredom of one who has spent too many years as an ex-pat. The bar girl, between serving drinks, would go back to him and chat him up with lots of questions. Clearly she was looking for a 'friend" with money.

Once my beer had evaporated I walked up the seafront road to the town still deflecting offers for bike taxi hire. I soon passed a typical Viet style 7/11 shop with a few girls outside and where a small boy popped out with handed extended saying, ‘Gimme one dalla’. (Nice try kid, but you need a new routine.) I stopped a few hundred metres further on, sitting on a low wall to consult my tourist map and figure out what I could see in the remaining hour and a bit before the return ferry back to Saigon. Ah, but I was still in sight of the shop. With the sound of ‘putt putt putt’ one of the girls arrived on a scooter alongside me saying ‘Sinjow’ then asking, ‘You want help’?

I declined the offer. She looked thirty but said she was 20 so she was possibly 25 and dressed in the standard all purpose uniform of black polyester slacks and white tee shirt . (I did not see one Viet girl wear less than a tee shirt top and trousers and usually much more, covering up to stay pale and modest being good Buddhists. Her trousers also seemed to be that skin tight, wearing a thong was definably noticeable. She had the figure of a 13 year old western girl but that means nothing as the same physique could toil all day in a rice paddy or tote a rifle during a war.

I could tell she was re-gathering forces for a new slant on her sales attack this time as she put her bike against the wall then asking :
Where you from?
What’s your name?
she placed her hands on top of mine to get that personal contact feel. (Dear oh dear, here we go)
‘You want hotel?’ .’ Khong Cam Irn’, no, sez I.
‘You want massage’ No
‘You want boom boom?’ I waved my upright hand, No No.
‘But I haven't eaten today’.
I looked into her eyes, tilted my head forwarded and stared at her. She grinned.
‘Oh go on’ she pleaded. She pushed her knees against mine and gave little bumps against me. (Was that straight out of some manual to make men weak at the knees?)
‘Where is Li from?’ I asked. Saigon and she was a masseur.
Ah, ‘Poor family to support at home?’. She ignored that pre-emptive question. She finally accepted that ‘no’ was ‘no’ as I started to laugh the harder she tried to sell herself.

In the end I agreed that as she had wasted my time, for $2 US she could take me around the town and back to the ferry on the back of a small bike, ridden by a slip of girl, as I looked over the top of her helmet. If she was a pint sized girl then I was a Gallon size guy. I gave her strict instructions to go slow.

When I got back to the terminal she said
‘You can always catch the next ferry after this one and....?
No!!!

On the ferry ride back to HCMC I sat next to Nigel from Hartlepool, a Tesol teacher working at a Vung Tau high school. He was attached to an absolutely beautiful Viet girl. I referred to her as his personal assistant.
Oh No, she is my girl friend while I'm in Vung Tau.
We slipped into English vernacular chat so she would not understand the conversation especially in his indifferent attitude to her. He said the average local factory wage is around $90 US per month so the girls are practical and seek Westerners who will look after them while in Vietnam.

I’d certainly recommend this day excursion to Vung Tau

Back in Saigon I looked for a real massage shop and hello, two smiling middle-aged women were exiting a tidy massage shop so I ducked in and had one of the most comprehensive massages, complete with hot rocks, to round off my day. My travelling companions said the Mekong delta trip was so so, just like mine?
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Re: Down the Sai gon River to Vung Tau

Post by caller »

Another nice post Jimbob, many thanks! :thumb:
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Re: Down the Sai gon River to Vung Tau

Post by PeteC »

Really good trip report Jimbob. Did you see any signs, "Here To Stay was here..."? :shock: :laugh:

Did you find anything that stuck out as being much different than here in Thailand: hotel/transport costs, food cleanliness, attitude of the locals towards foreigners, infrastructure, organization? Pete :cheers:
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Re: Down the Sai gon River to Vung Tau

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Pete,
Saigon is a so so destination. Hanoi far more interesting
The French, American colonial influence in Vietnam to me is minimal, the Chinese have had the most lasting influence.
The State control is all purvasive as expected. Yet you go to towns like Hoi an, very touristy but with their own strict moral rules, only men massage men etc. Great accommodation, local foods great. I was embarassed by my friends who declined to eat local. Italian Pasta in Vietnam? The resort towns are ideal places to take families. China Beach between Hoi an and Da Nang is gradually being lined with 4-5 star resorts. Have you Seen the Brit TV video 'Top Gear in Vietnam'?
The three buffoons ride scooters from Saigon to Hanoi. Recommended viewing on Vietnam
Many similarities to much of Asia like the Thais- people have to work hard for little. Very family orientated. Transport infrastructure is poor compared to Thailand.

I found attitudes to Westerners was positive but maybe its how you treat them. Very young population more open to outside influence. I toured the Army museum in Hanoi when lots of their war veterans were there. They were courteous. (It takes me back to Robert Mcnamara's 'Fog of War' video when he returned to Hanoi to talk to the old generals.)
'Here to Stay'? Was that you? :tsk:
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Re: Down the Sai gon River to Vung Tau

Post by Procyon »

Good report, I will get round to doing Vietnam one day!

Do you have any more pics? How does it compare in price to Thailand for accommodation/eating/sight seeing/entertainment?
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Re: Down the Sai gon River to Vung Tau

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PROCYON: I thought things were cheaper, Accomodation is rated by the government you canhave some faith on the star rating. Site seeing good. good for history buffs and naturalists. entertainment much more subdued especially you are single. Don't take the Gary Glitter tour.
I'll stcik photos on apart 2 topic
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Re: Down the Sai gon River to Vung Tau

Post by BaaBaa. »

Only just got around to reading this, cheers Jimbob.

:cheers:
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