So yesterday I got all namby-pamby with you all and told you how lovely healthcare is in Hua Hin. And in general terms to reiterate what I said yesterday it is, but maybe only for farang.
The trouble that I ran into was when my girlfriend recently fell ill. Why the Thais seem to become lazy when it is a Thai that is sick, I have no idea, but it certainly seems to be the case.
Now my girlfriend is 'usually' ill anyway. She always seems to have a lil' something bothering her. As with this last instance she had had a long running cough - which is kind of unusual, as she does not smoke. But then she came down with this migraine headache that the cough compounded because every time she coughed - its seemed horribly painful to her head.
Over a period of two days I took her first, when the problem was milder, to the Hua Hin Hospital. They ran no tests, none - not a single one. Not understanding Thai at a medical level I could offer very little and let her deal with them. Half-hour later we were out the door with an assortment of pills of varying purpose and color. Some were basic antibiotics, there was a mild pain killer - akin to aspirin - and the rest were seemingly vitamins.
The next morning after several rounds medication the problem had not seemed to subside so I thought I should take to another doctor, maybe a 'better' doctor for a second opinion. Now I took her to Hua Hn Polyclinic. Fast and courteous they took her in immediately, more test were run here. Someone took her blood pressure (normal), another nurse thought it prudent to take her temperature (elevated), and not one but two doctors came into to see her and one wielded another diagnostic tool - a stethoscope who listened dutifully to her heart beat (normal) and her respiratory function (labored and congested). They concluded that she was "sick" with a respiratory infection with flu like symptoms. We were given more aspirin and antibiotics and sent on our way.
It was at about this point that I began to wonder why no one had taken a blood sample..? While these lesser diagnostic methods can be good at connecting the dots on a problem, a blood test is a definitive way finding out what is going on. Similarly urine tests and throat cultures can be used. No matter, they were ignored.
I went to work and in the later hours of my day she started calling me every half hours in pain and crying. When I got indeed the poor girl was in tears and was generally no longer functioning; she could not hold down liquids or food and would even throw up medication she would take. She could not take medicine for the pain or the medicine that promised to make her better.
Sao Paulo. Now I am not taking this sitting down anymore. The problem is severe and I am sick of two bit doctors only half diagnosing her. I take her so Sao Paulo get her checked and see the doctor. I explain what she is going through, what we have tried. He asks her some questions in Thai that she is barely able to answer. More diagnostics. I ask him to take a blood test to be sure; not needed he tells me, mai bpen rai. Mai bpen rai my ass! He essentially sided with the earlier diagnosis tried to dispense pills many of which I told him we already had. He added a more powerful painkiller (Tylenol-3 w. codeine), sleeping pills, and probably some other vitamins for good measure. "Drink lots of water," he says. Pffhh! Jackass...

I take her home and as the evening wears on the problem continues to worsen. Finally, properly pissed off I went to local pharmacy before it closed and convinced the chemist there - a previous acquaintance - that I needed a soluble form of morphine that could be take orally. She gave me a fast acting morphine derivative that you can place on your tounge, it dissolves and you can wash away the nasty taste a minute or so later with a bit of water. This at least made her more comfortable. Me, I wasn't very comfortable...

It is about this point that she tells me that she is going to Isaan to be with her family!?! I tell he she is not dying and she doesn't need to go to Isaan! Too late - her brother is halfway from Bangkok in his truck to fetch and take her home. Holy Jesus-Allah-and-Buddha I think. I knew she wasn't dying (I think of course), but I was really wondering why she wanted to go home..? I couldn't leave I had obligation at work the next day but promised to come up the following day.
At this point I am recalling images of Isaan hospitals and doctors. Not very pretty pictures mind you. I had had stitches removed there some time back and that genius of a doctor simply trimmed off the visible portions leaving me to dig them out later with tweezers - they were not the biodegradable sort mind you. So my faith in Issan medicine was not high... I was worried.
Flew up to Isaan and was met by the family at the airport who took me straight to the hospital. Again, not pretty. The sick are sleeping in the halls with their families, children walk around playfully in areas where people are deathly sick and possibly contagious. It is later evening but it is still humid and hot, I can hear some one's mother, sister or wife weeping softly in the adjacent room. I had already decided that if the hospital was not up to snuff that she would be leaving with me the following day for Bangkok's Buhmigrand International Hospital, pricey yes, but I didn't care.
Somehow she had garnered a private room which was good because her ample family needed it to set up mats for sleeping and eating, I swear they probably making plans to bring in a BBQ to cook for her. I love how Thais set up shop where ever they go...

She was much more comfortable than when I saw her last and this at least was a relief. We talked for a while and seemed better. I asked what the doctor had said, she thought for a moment, pointed at herself in general and said, "He say sick inside." 'Well, yeah...' I thought and resigned myself for waiting to see the doctor the next day. She tried to make me happy by showing on her arm that they had taken blood. That did make me happy. I sat next to her on the bed and light stroked her back. At one point she winced in pain. I asked her what was wrong and she said that the doctor had, "Put needle, take water," pointing to the spot on her spine. Holy shit, they had done a spinal tap - I was impressed.
The next day I waited impatiently for the doctor. When I finally became pissy and asked her where he was my girlfriend said, "Him, walk-walk-walk-walk..." She smiled - so did I.
I went into the nurses station and sat down and asked a nurse what was wrong with my lady. She tested my Thai - I failed. She tried her English - she failed. She then grabbed a pieice of paper and after about a minute of careful writing she slid it across her desk to me. It had only one word, "MENEGITIS" in all caps. Aw, crap that's not good. The doctor enters the nursing station and the nurse goes, "Oh, Doctor!" and passes me off to him. This guy looked like he was 19! It was a Thai version of Doogie Houser!! He then tells in great English with only a slight accent that:
"Your girlfriend has meningitis yes. We began by taking a blood sample, which indicated that she had an infection. We later attributed that to pneumonia - which she has had for some time. That is why she coughs a lot. Still we did not know why she had headaches so yesterday I order a spinal tap. That indicated that she had meningitis. She is on a strong anti-bacterial and anti-fungal antibiotic regimen and should be fine in about two weeks."
Holy-f%#@&in'-crap! I stood there in shock and disbelief, not because my girlfriend was sick, but in awe of this young genius. I shook his hand and he was on his way. I returned happily and confidently to my girlfriend know she would be okay soon. I was at ease.
It turns out that young doctors in Thailand are sent to do their "residency" in rural and poor areas on government salary for the first few years. After that time they are recruited by or apply for better jobs in Bangkok or where they want to work - they are then replaced with a new young doctor. What a great freaking system! Insuring that the most impoverished areas have doctors that are up to date on medicine and techniques. Just when you think everything is backwards in Thailand - something like this comes along and warms your heart.
Anyway, back to Hua Hin. Hua Hin is by no way an poor area so it does not get these young Einstein doctors. Instead we have mostly to old sods who are working towards retirement. Sometimes their skills can be out of date; sometimes they can just be lazy - so beware. Her diagnosis if it had not been treated, could have been deadly.
I went to the Hua Hin Polyclinic a few days ago for a routine ailment on my own. I saw one of the doctors that had treated my lady. He remembered her and me. He asked how she was doing. I told that she was fine. "Good, medicine work, see?" "No actually, she went to a hospital in Isaan by her home, where they figured out she had meningitis and pneumonia, they cured her." I said to him.
"Oh," he said, "Not so good."