As I was caught up in Chinese New Year, the trains to Butterworth were full until after my old visa expired, so I had to take the bus to Hat Yai. It was due to leave HH at 10pm and got away at 10.30pm - not bad. I was surprised that it was a "double decker" coach, with toilet. Overall it was very comfortable and took 10.5 hours to get to Hat Yai. Arrived 8am. Price 680 Baht.
As soon as I stepped off the bus, I was grabbed for a minibus to Penang. Had to wait an hour, but that was enough time for some noodle soup and then we were on our way. The journey to the Malaysian border at Pedang Besar took about 30 mins. It's chaos there with millions of minibuses, coaches, cars and people passing through. Nevertheless, getting stamped out was quite efficient and the process didn't take more than 15 mins.
After that, it's about a kilometer drive through "no man's land", past the huge duty-free shopping mall, to the Malaysian border. Again, loads of people, but a very quick immigration process. No arrival/departure cards to fill in. My passport was scanned and I was stamped in for 90 days. Easy.
After that it was about a further 3 hour drive to Georgetown - the capital of Penang. I was surprised that we weren't dropped off on the mainland at Butterworth to get the ferry. The minibus went a little further south and crossed to the island via the bridge.
After messing around for about an hour, we were dropped off right on Chulia Street, the heart of Georgetown.
Here I got lucky. As soon as I stepped off the bus, I was greeted by an Indian chap and quickly learnt that he had a visa service two doors up the road. And it happened to be the company I had decided to use before I went. So, my application for a Multiple-entry Non Immigrant O visa was done straight away. Cost 5,500 Baht, plus 500 Baht for their running around. (The easiest way of calculating money is 10 Baht to 1 Ringit).
So, feeling pretty pleased with myself that I'd sorted the application out so quickly, I decided to have a beer
(Small Tiger was between 70 and 80 Baht wherever I went). Here I was lucky for the second time. I'd decided to stay at The Malaysia Hotel which is just off Chulia Street and costs 1,100 Baht a night. Anyway, the "bar" I was in looked inviting and I noticed a stage and drum kit set up. So, I asked whether they had any rooms free. Was shown a room the "size of a football pitch". Huge. King sized bed, sofa, easy chair, dressing table, wardrobe and LOADS of space. The bathroom had a bathtub and was western style. OK, It could have used a lick of paint and a bit of attention, but when I was told that it 500 Baht a night if I used the aircon and 350 Baht if I only used the ceiling fan, I took it there and then.
The next 4 nights were brilliant. The owners and the musicians, who played nightly from 10pm - 1am, were about the most friendly people I've ever met. I had a great time, so much so, that I decided to say another night after I got my passport back.
In amongst all the people I met there (and they were all characters), Mr. Ahmed B Ali stands out. He was 71 and had won the bodybuilding contest on Penang for 3 consecutive years between 1959-61. There were also a string of "Mr Body Beautiful" trophies etc etc. He has 5 children and 17 grandchildren now. I'm looking at a signed copy of the article written by a Penang newsaper right now. You'd never believe it. At 71, he's got hair down almost to his waist and looks like he's just stepped out of the jungle. And he drinks copious amounts of Guinness Export (which at 8% tends to knock him out pretty quickly).
All I'm saying is that the people in there were great. The hotel is called "The Blue Diamond" and is approximately 400 yards down from the top of Chulia Street on the left. BTW, I suppose if you can't find it, just ask for the place that "Mat Tarzan" hangs out in. Everyone knows him.
Food at the hotel was great value. Fish (two fillets) with chips, mixed veg (OK frozen stuff) and a bit of salad was 120 Baht. The same with lamb chops (2 and a bit overdone) 160 Baht. The band were OK and they attracted a good crowd of travelers every night. I couldn't recommend this place any more - as long as you're willing to put up with a bit of peeling paint etc. I never needed to use the aircon, so for 350 Baht a night, I wasn't complaining. I could have stayed at The Malaysia Hotel for 1,100 and would have been bored stiff.
Other than that, Chulia Street has plenty of restaurants/bars and everywhere is friendly. There's Love Lane which speaks for itself, although I wouldn't advise walking down there after 9pm ish. Full of ladyboys and you're pretty certain to lose something there. There are a couple of decent bars though.
AND, there's Little India. Newly cobblestoned streets with all the sights, sounds and smells of India herself. I picked up a carrier bag of spices for 220 Baht. The equivalent in HH (even if I'd managed to find some of the stuff) would have cost me well over 1,000, I'm sure. Anyway, let the vindaloos roll
On the way back, I teamed up with a young Swedish bloke who was traveling up to BKK and then to Pattaya. He'd left his Swedish girlfriend on Penang to see a friend in Pattaya. I thought he must nuts when he showed me her photo. "You've left her just to see a mate? You're crazy". There didn't seem to be any way back to her for him, so we drank the best part of his bottle of vodka, with coke, before we even got to the border. The beers were on me after that
Price of train from Butterworth to HH - @1,100 Baht. Air-con carriages, own berth, very comfortable. I staggered off it at 6am and found my way back home.
Although I only got a single entry Non O visa there (90 days), I'd do the journey again tomorrow. I would choose the train down there though. Bus/minibus is a bit rough for this old man.
Hope I havn't bored you all.
