Ceiling/roof insulation
insulation on top of plastboard in ceiling area is definately the way to go in my opinion, spray foam is NOT the way to do it.
why??
well:
1. its commonly advertised as able to fix leaks, well it dosnt, all it does is hide a leak. water can still enter and then become untraceable, also water can sit in areas un noticed cause all sorts of problems.
2. it can have a reverse effect of actually lifting tiles off the roof, causing a bigger problem.
3. it traps heat.
4. can cause moisture build up.
5. sticks to tiles like glue making them hard to remove and repair.
theres more im sure...........
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
why??
well:
1. its commonly advertised as able to fix leaks, well it dosnt, all it does is hide a leak. water can still enter and then become untraceable, also water can sit in areas un noticed cause all sorts of problems.
2. it can have a reverse effect of actually lifting tiles off the roof, causing a bigger problem.
3. it traps heat.
4. can cause moisture build up.
5. sticks to tiles like glue making them hard to remove and repair.
theres more im sure...........
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
"All the otters don't understand me"
"We might make you bother"
"We might make you bother"
Crazy88 and Spltlid,I use this one. Seems to do what it says on the tin. ie I am siiting in the house with no aircon and I am not hot,outside is stifling. Anyone got any informed opinions on this versus the cheaper foil ?
I have the foil that the builders install which is just a thin layer directly underneath the roof tiles.
Without aircon my house is usually a few degrees hotter on the inside that the outside temperature!
So, are you guys saying that if I lay a layer of this on top of the ceiling of my second floor it may cool the house a bit? Also, what I have is 60cm tall beams up there in the attic with the gypsum ceiling attached at the bottom of them. So should I just roll this stuff out on top of the beams (leaving the 60cm air space between the beams or cut it so that it fits in the spaces between the beams and roll it out directly on top of the gypsum ceiling?
My brain is like an Internet browser; 12 tabs are open and 5 of them are not responding, there's a GIF playing in an endless loop,... and where is that annoying music coming from?
hi HHF,
I believe that the benefit from laying the insulation on top of the ceiling gypsum is only really seen if air conditioning is used. this will prevent the cooler air from escaping and the hot air from your roof space entering the room.
if you do not use aircon then best not to use it as it traps the warm air in the room and dosnt allow it to escape.
have you thought about installing some sort of ventiliation in the roof space to extract the hot air, plant trees/shrubs near walls that have direct sunlight.open doors and windows for cross flow ventilation.
I believe that the benefit from laying the insulation on top of the ceiling gypsum is only really seen if air conditioning is used. this will prevent the cooler air from escaping and the hot air from your roof space entering the room.
if you do not use aircon then best not to use it as it traps the warm air in the room and dosnt allow it to escape.
have you thought about installing some sort of ventiliation in the roof space to extract the hot air, plant trees/shrubs near walls that have direct sunlight.open doors and windows for cross flow ventilation.
"All the otters don't understand me"
"We might make you bother"
"We might make you bother"
I do have wood slatted screened openings in the northern and southern facing peaks of the roof to allow for heat rising out of the attic as well as cross ventilation by wind. I use air con, but only in one room at a time (the one I'm in) and the rest of the house gets damned hot!if you do not use aircon then best not to use it as it traps the warm air in the room and dosnt allow it to escape.
have you thought about installing some sort of ventiliation in the roof space to extract the hot air, plant trees/shrubs near walls that have direct sunlight.open doors and windows for cross flow ventilation.
We never put bug screens on the windows (Thai wood windows opening outward, which I would never do again) so we rarely open doors or windows in the house. The next house will have PVC or aluminum sliders with built in screens! The wife wanted the wooden Thai style windows because they are so beauuuuutiful... but that's only if you refinish them every damned year!
![Cussing :cuss:](./images/smilies/icon_cussing.gif)
My brain is like an Internet browser; 12 tabs are open and 5 of them are not responding, there's a GIF playing in an endless loop,... and where is that annoying music coming from?
A bit confusing there with the 60cm beams and then 60cm gap, hhf?hhfarang wrote: So, are you guys saying that if I lay a layer of this on top of the ceiling of my second floor it may cool the house a bit? Also, what I have is 60cm tall beams up there in the attic with the gypsum ceiling attached at the bottom of them. So should I just roll this stuff out on top of the beams (leaving the 60cm air space between the beams or cut it so that it fits in the spaces between the beams and roll it out directly on top of the gypsum ceiling?
Lay the stuff on top of the gypsum, Do not not leave gaps, it defeats the purpose.
![Cheers :cheers:](./images/smilies/icon_cheers.gif)
May you be in heaven half an hour before the devil know`s you`re dead!
There is an ongoing squabble in Australia concerning "foil" roof insulation.
There have been several fatalities from electrocution because of the foil becoming "live", mostly during installation it appears.
At the moment they seem to be blaming the use of metal staples used to secure the "batts" in place. (Australia tends to use "batts", as against rolls of insulation-- a "batt" is a rectangular shaped piece of insulation designed to fit down in between the rafters, or ceiling joist's).
The aluminium foil WILL most definitely conduct electricity, and could become "live" if touching an active conductor. To be electrocuted your body would have to provide a path to earth (ground), or the neutral conductor. Most Australian houses have exposed copper water pipes which provide an ideal earth conductor, as against Thai houses with the almost exclusive use of PVC pipes, but there are other ways of finding a path to earth, such as the exposed ends of re-bar coming in contact.
Another item that should be considered is light fittings, especially down-lights, that have their control transformer, or ballast, exposed in the ceiling space. Not only from a electrocution point of view, but also, as these components get hot, starting a fire is a very real risk.
http://www.news.com.au/couriermail/stor ... 52,00.html
There have been several fatalities from electrocution because of the foil becoming "live", mostly during installation it appears.
At the moment they seem to be blaming the use of metal staples used to secure the "batts" in place. (Australia tends to use "batts", as against rolls of insulation-- a "batt" is a rectangular shaped piece of insulation designed to fit down in between the rafters, or ceiling joist's).
The aluminium foil WILL most definitely conduct electricity, and could become "live" if touching an active conductor. To be electrocuted your body would have to provide a path to earth (ground), or the neutral conductor. Most Australian houses have exposed copper water pipes which provide an ideal earth conductor, as against Thai houses with the almost exclusive use of PVC pipes, but there are other ways of finding a path to earth, such as the exposed ends of re-bar coming in contact.
Another item that should be considered is light fittings, especially down-lights, that have their control transformer, or ballast, exposed in the ceiling space. Not only from a electrocution point of view, but also, as these components get hot, starting a fire is a very real risk.
http://www.news.com.au/couriermail/stor ... 52,00.html
May you be in heaven half an hour before the devil know`s you`re dead!
Exterior, 20 cm cement block, interior 10 cm cement block.... 2 story house, except for sleeping, I am usually in one of two rooms downstairs. There is a 6 cm space between the first and second floors (for the height of the beams), but that is not accessible except through the small openings if you remove a light fixture.ummmm, what are your walls made of?
My brain is like an Internet browser; 12 tabs are open and 5 of them are not responding, there's a GIF playing in an endless loop,... and where is that annoying music coming from?
Erm, me thinks that you maybe better stick with inches, hhf.hhfarang wrote:Exterior, 20 cm cement block, interior 10 cm cement block.... 2 story house, except for sleeping, I am usually in one of two rooms downstairs. There is a 6 cm space between the first and second floors (for the height of the beams), but that is not accessible except through the small openings if you remove a light fixture.ummmm, what are your walls made of?
20 cm is 200 mm is 8 inches, plus 10 cm is 100mm is 4 inches, so your walls are a total of 12 inches thick? If that is the case then the walls are not the problem.
6cm is 60mm is just under 2.5 inches. Not enough space to fit any recessed light fitting. Regardless of how much it is, the biggest percentage of heat is coming through the roof, and the way to stop it now is to install fibre type insulation in the upstairs roof space, on top of the gypsum, and over the complete area, not just one room.
![Cheers :cheers:](./images/smilies/icon_cheers.gif)
May you be in heaven half an hour before the devil know`s you`re dead!