Photo Trip: Mid-Thailand With Visitors

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Big Boy
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Photo Trip: Mid-Thailand With Visitors

Post by Big Boy »

We have had more than our share of friends and relatives visit this year, and I have been doing my best arranging transport, accommodation and sightseeing. This all culminated with a few days away from Hua Hin giving our longest staying guests exactly what they wanted.

Their requirement included:

• A floating market
• The Railway Market at Mae Klong
• A Royal Palace
• Some old temple ruins
• Death Railway
• WWII history

I planned a route, where we could do it all in a single trip.

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market & Mae Klong Train Market

The first leg of the trip took careful planning. The critical path was being at Mae Klong Train Market by 11:10 for the arrival of the train (departure was 11:30).

We made an early start, and headed for the floating market. Roads were clear, and as we got close, the landscape changed to coconut and banana groves, and the roads became extremely bendy. Numerous floating markets were signposted in the area, but we continued on as planned to Damnoen Saduak.

Having taken friends previously to dockside markets, I was keen to give our visitors the authentic floating market experience, albeit, still selling the same tourist tat.

I had tried to find the market opening times on the Internet, but like many things, people seem to think it will be amusing to give false information. I found opening times ranging from 04:00 to 09:00.

We pulled into the huge parking area at about 7:45, and the car park was deserted. However, a quick enquiry, and we hired a boat to take our visitors around for an hour. Mrs BB and I sat in a local coffee shop while they were paddled around – we’d seen it all before. Traders boats were tying up all of the time we were there, and I’d guess the floating part of the market was fully open by 9am.

Our friends really enjoyed their trip, which was being paddled around by their boatman, who serenaded them as they went around the market – cost for the boat hire – 500 Baht.
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We sat, and enjoyed another coffee together, whilst looking at the tat they’d bought and then it was the drive to Mae Klong. The drive wasn’t too long, but I knew parking here was a pig. This used to be part of unseen Thailand, but it seems every man and his dog visit for every train arrival and departure. We seemed to queue for ages, but eventually found a space. It was still only 10:15, so we found somewhere to eat breakfast.

We’d chosen an awful week for this mini tour, temperatures were regularly in the 40s. We entered the market, which is crazy. The walkway is the rail track and sleepers, the traders wares are stacked right up to the edge of the track. There are huge tarpaulins covering the track to provide shade, but when you’re >6’ 5”, walking through here is very uncomfortable – the tarpaulins are at Thai height. The heat close to the tented ceiling was intense.
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We moved through the market, looking at the various produce for sale (didn’t buy anything), and as we approached the end, there was an air conditioned coffee shop. It was an oasis in the desert. We piled in and ordered cold drinks all around while we waited for the train’s arrival.

It’s very well organised, and everybody moved outside when the alarm sounded, meaning the train’s arrival was imminent. This is where it gets dangerous – people see the edge of the track, and don’t realise how much the train overhangs the track. People stand in the most stupid positions, putting themselves in extreme danger, when they will see just as well stood one pace back.

All of the stalls were still in position. Then the approaching train sounded it’s horn – within seconds all of the stalls had been moved out of the way, although there was still a lot of produce on the ground right up to the edge of the track.

I’d been before, so ensured our party stood well back, but there were people still stood in the danger zone, and we could hear the engine approaching. I was stood behind a knee high steel barrier – obviously there for a purpose. On the other side of the barrier was a plump German lady – I indicated she should be on the other side of the barrier, but what did I know? I was about 1’ taller than her, but I think she thought I was telling her to get out of my way.

The train came into sight, and you could see the penny drop with the German lady – she panicked, and the train couldn’t/wasn’t stopping. She urgently tried stepping backwards over the barrier, but her legs were too short and she lost her balance – I could see the fear in her face. With about a second to spare, I reached out and lifted her back over the barrier. I think she was more put out at me grabbing her (non-sexual) bits than saving her life. I don’t remember even getting a thank you, but better saving her than getting my shoes messy. Anyway, the sight of the train going through the market, and the market stalls being restored immediately it passes is always a fantastic sight.

We moved back down the market until we found a suitable waiting position, and repeated the experience, minus the ungrateful German lady. I now had a 3 hour drive ahead of me on the road to Ayutthaya.



To be continued........................./
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Re: Photo Trip: Mid-Thailand With Visitors

Post by buksida »

Great report, two places I have never been. I wonder how many people get injured or worse there, TAT certainly wouldn't report it.

Looking forward to the rest of it.
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Re: Photo Trip: Mid-Thailand With Visitors

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From another blog:
Do accidents happen? Yes they do. It’s not uncommon for a food stand or table to be dragged away by the dangerous train market and unfortunately the day before we visited someone had lost their life to an unforgiving train.
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Re: Photo Trip: Mid-Thailand With Visitors

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Tourists and trains :cuss: - as we progress through this trip, we will come across another incident involving trains.
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Re: Photo Trip: Mid-Thailand With Visitors

Post by migrant »

Great report and pics, Thanks!
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Re: Photo Trip: Mid-Thailand With Visitors

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The Royal Palace at Bang Pa-In

Very conveniently, and not by accident, on the road to Ayutthaya, a slight detour away, is the Royal Palace at Bang Pa-In. I’d been before, and the grounds are beautiful.

Getting in was a problem – very strict dress code, stricter than I’ve ever experienced before at a Thailand attraction (including this one). We all had to hire clothes – shirts and trousers (no mean feat when your name is Big Boy). This was totally overkill, and I felt it was a Farang tourist scam. As well as the entrance fee, we had to pay up to 300 Baht/head for clothes + deposit. If I didn’t have guests, I would have been long gone. The theory being this was a Royal Residence, and flesh was not permitted. Once inside it was very apparent that female staff wore skirts that were above the knee in instances. There were also workmen inside wearing shorts. Without doubt, a scam.

This was a time limited visit, so we hired a golf cart – only Thais know how to drive, so we had to hire a driver as well. I was starting to hate this place. Then to make things worse, a summer storm decided to park itself overhead. I was glad we were riding in a covered buggy.

Beautiful grounds as I’ve said already and the buildings are just as nice. Unfortunately, many of the buildings were under maintenance and not accessible. There was 1 building near the end of our journey that hadn’t been open the previous visit, and this contained some beautiful museum pieces. Unfortunately, photographs inside buildings was strictly forbidden.
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The topiary wasn't bad either.
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We then returned our clothes (mine was the trousers with an embarrassing split down the backside, which they didn’t notice :laugh: ), deposits were returned and I set off on the short trip to Ayutthaya.

Arrival in Ayutthaya was my first and only Google Maps problem on my phone, and it wasn’t Google’s problem.

• Problem 1 – “You have arrived at your destination.” We were at an ancient Chedi. I had not booked into an ancient ruin. We found several alternative locations, but no sign of the hotel – literally driving around in circles for an hour.

• Problem 2 – Asked a tuk-tuk driver the way – off I went, but nope, nothing there.

• Problem 3 – Went back to the tuk-tuk, and asked him to drive – we followed. Absolutely no signage for the hotel. I must have driven past it at least 10 times :?

To be continued........................./
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Re: Photo Trip: Mid-Thailand With Visitors

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Yes, something strange with the procedures at Bang Pa-In. I was there with family from US, male and female, some years back and everyone was in shorts. If I recall everyone I saw was in shorts as it was an extremely hot day. Something has changed with their rules, or like you say a scam.
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Re: Photo Trip: Mid-Thailand With Visitors

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Yes, its awful when you're with visitors and you know you're being scammed. I'd just driven a long way to get them there. To have turned around and left would have resulted in great disappointment. It wasn't just the wearing of shorts, we had to hire shirts as well - OK, mine might have had a Ratchaburi football badge on it, but there was nothing else that could have been deemed as offensive to anybody. It was all about the money. I will never take that detour again.
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Re: Photo Trip: Mid-Thailand With Visitors

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We visited a royal palace in Chiang Rai once and had to don some dodgy trousers and slippers to get in - they didn't charge us though so this place does sound very scammy.
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Re: Photo Trip: Mid-Thailand With Visitors

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The baggy trousers are often gaudy/flowery designs. Something you would never see anyone (Thai or foreigner) wearing anywhere else. As well as making a bob or two, I'm sure they're having a laugh at our expense by making us look stupid!
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Re: Photo Trip: Mid-Thailand With Visitors

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Certainly more offensive than my sexy legs :D
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Re: Photo Trip: Mid-Thailand With Visitors

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I visited the old Palace on the way to Cha Am some years ago and the dress rules there were similar to a golf course, you could wear shorts but they had to be tailored shorts. My friend wasn't and they made him wear some of those baggy trouser things, like an 18th Century Thai Royal courtier or MC Hammer, depending on your perspective!
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Re: Photo Trip: Mid-Thailand With Visitors

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Yes, I've been there half a dozen times with various visitors this year :banghead: :laugh:

You can normally get away with shorts beneath the knee and shoulders covered, however, the last time I went, there was a jobsworth on duty and I had to wear a skirt sarong :D . The difference there being the clothes are provided free of charge, so no benefit in making every man and his dog wear them.
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Re: Photo Trip: Mid-Thailand With Visitors

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Ayutthaya Ruins

After the worst night ever in one of the worst hotels I’ve ever stayed in (this seems to be an Ayutthaya thing if you stay in the old quarter – I returned to watch football last week, stayed in a different hotel and it was almost as bad), we set off on a tour of the ruins. We hired our friendly tuk-tuk driver from the day before at 200 Baht/hour, which was easier than driving/parking.

Most of the ruins had a Farang cover charge, generally ranging from 50 to 150 Baht – Thais were 10 Baht. :cuss:

Wat Yai Chai Mongkhong – A massive temple away from the historical park on the edge of town. I had somehow missed this one on previous visits. Quite a few steps to climb to the top, and nice views of the temple when you get there.
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A bit special, this one.  While there, 2 workmen removed the gold ribbon from around the chedi.  Of course, no safety harnesses.
A bit special, this one. While there, 2 workmen removed the gold ribbon from around the chedi. Of course, no safety harnesses.
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Looking down into the well from inside the chedi
Looking down into the well from inside the chedi
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When we returned for the football 2 weeks after this trip, I took my daughter who had never been to Ayutthaya. We hired a tuk-tuk again, but this time the tuk-tuk took us to the group party area, where we got in without paying. There was also a huge tribute to King Naresuan, which we were totally unaware of during the first visit – nice man made canals and thousands of chicken statues.
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Then the walk to the temple, but free admission this time.
Then the walk to the temple, but free admission this time.
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The rest of the temple ruins tomorrow.

To be continued........................./
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Re: Photo Trip: Mid-Thailand With Visitors

Post by pharvey »

Great report(s) BB - thanks for sharing! :thumb:

We have some freinds who will be staying at our place in HH later this year, so certainly some recommendations for them - although they're not into the "too touristy" spots......

For myself, the "Train Market" and the "Ruins" certainly appeal, but from your report on the Palace, that will be one I'll be avoiding.

:cheers: :cheers:
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