Photo Trip Report: Down the Mekong in Cambodia

[Big Boy]

Yes, I was there before the Chinese. It seemed to be a retirement Mecca then. I was scarred for life.

[dtaai-maai]

"You've seen one waterfall, you've seen 'em all." Well, that's that theory knocked on the head!

That's a long old ride from Malaysia on those bikes!

[buksida]

Back in Stung Treng, it was time for a siesta. The mid-afternoon heat was oppressive, approaching 40 degrees so walking around a stifling town in it was a bad idea. Once things had cooled down we went back to see the police to book onward travel. They were pleased to see us and offered us a cold beer and a seat to join them in eating fresh river fish, frogs, various insects, and the best Kampot pepper and lime sauce I’d ever tasted. It turned into a bit of a lively evening with flowing drinks, Khmer pop music, and dancing. Not sure that would ever happen in Thailand!

It was a great way to round off what, for me, had been the best day of the trip so far.

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To follow - Kratie

[buksida]

The road south beckoned and the next day our police-arranged minivan turned up on time at the hotel. We must have made a good impression on these guys as we had the entire van to ourselves, the driver was professional, and nobody else or their household furniture was picked up on the two-hour journey.

Kracheh or “Kratie” as it is spoken is a small Mekong town on the way south. Aside from a couple of colonial buildings, a sweltering all-day wet market, and a rather bland riverfront with very little activity, there wasn’t much of note here.

The heat was punishing and we were all suffering a little travel fatigue by this, the halfway point in the trip. The only redeeming feature our ‘Heng Heng Guesthouse’ had was a large shared terrace overlooking the Mekong. Even at 17.00, it was still around 35 degrees and too hot to venture out so I made the most of that terrace and the Mekong sunset photo opportunities with some "Dengue Fever" Khmer rock on the speaker and a cold tin of ABC.

Nobody was in the mood to do much exploring and Kratie was a bit of a disappointment after the excitement in Stung Treng, so we decided to move on the following day. The town was pretty much shuttered up by 20.30 anyway so we enjoyed the empty riverfront with a bottle of Pastis. I inquired about the possibility of a ferry down the Mekong to the next town but was told that they don’t run at this time of year due to the low water.

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To follow: Kampong Cham

[migrant]

It looks cleaner than Thailand.

[buksida]

The cities were pretty clean, but the rural areas were awash in plastic.

[pharvey]

Yes, I was there before the Chinese.

Oh I doubt it BB - but I do know what you mean!!

[pharvey]

Fantastic photo's and report buks as always. I do miss Asia, but not all of it!

[Big Boy]

OK, to clarify, I was there before the mass influx of Chinese casinos.

[pharvey]

OK, to clarify, I was there before the mass influx of Chinese casinos.

The Casino side is very sad - obvious influences elsewhere... Malaysia, Macau - and plenty in Africa now I'm told. They are taking over all in so many different ways and unfortunately we are allowing them to do so.

[buksida]

Taking public transport in Cambodia is a bit of a lottery. The guesthouse had arranged our $8 minivan to the next town two and a half hours south. However, when the already full wagon turned up, we were a little bewildered as to how we’d all fit in. Three French girls, the only other foreigners we’d seen in Kratie, were also already tightly squeezed in.

A crush wasn’t even close to describing this circus as the driver continued to stop to shoehorn more people in. One passenger was even sitting on his lap as he drove on with eleven people sardined into a seven-seater. This is the way in Cambodia.

After another hellish Khmer road journey, and a couple of cheap Chinese guesthouses, we all decided on some luxury for a night at the four-star LBN Asian Hotel in downtown Kampong Cham. In Thailand, a hotel of this quality would cost upwards of 2,500 baht per night, in Cambodia, it was the princely sum of $40. The room was huge with probably the best view I’ve had from a hotel in as long as I can remember.

Kampong Cham is a much bigger and livelier town than Kratie. The riverfront was a hive of activity in the late afternoon as the sun and scorching temperatures dropped. Food vendors, aerobics moms, joggers, cyclists, couples, families, friends, and tourists all came out to enjoy the evening Mekong.

We found a little sky bar that was serving ridiculously cheap drinks so used that as a vantage point to take in the scene. It turned out to be the hotspot for the young hip and trendy Cambodians who want to see and be seen. Most of them were friendly and approachable, wanting to practice or show off their English, something that is rare in the modern-day Thailand where the youth is obsessed with their phones and Farcebook accounts.

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Next - more KC

[Dannie Boy]

I can’t decide whether it looks better during the day or at night-time - such a dilemma?

You continue to spoil/make us envious!!

[buksida]

You continue to spoil/make us envious!!

Right ... people should get out of Thailand more often, its not all roses and chocolates here like some seem to believe.

[pharvey]

You continue to spoil/make us envious!!

Right ... people should get out of Thailand more often, its not all roses and chocolates here like some seem to believe.

Never really been one for the "Bright Lights" anywhere - great Sunsets, small bars and restaurants, a few beers and watch life go by.....

[STEVE G]

You continue to spoil/make us envious!!

Right ... people should get out of Thailand more often, its not all roses and chocolates here like some seem to believe.

I intend to travel to these countries in the surrounding region after I retire so I'm paying attention.
Having worked away from home for almost my whole career, presently I just go home and spend time in Hua Hin, I'm even happy sitting in my garden with the dogs but when I can do that everyday, I'll start to travel as well.