Does anyone out there have a tester to check salt concentration in a salt water pool I can borrow for an hour?
I'm getting frustrated with the pool company we have called in, who claim they do not know why the Chlorinator and Salt cell aren't producing enough chlorine. I suspect they haven't put enough salt in but can't check without a tester.
It could be they have under-salted to create a problem in order to pressure me into giving them an annual maintenance contract but that is the cynical view.
I react to the liquid chlorine more than the salt water system so suggestions to just add that aren't much help.
Last time it went green, they added flocullant then vacuumed to the sand filter. Whenever I have done this myself I always vacuum to waste. I suspect the sand filter is now full of green goo!
Also, does anyone also know the best place to get pool chemicals?
Cheers
MrP.
Swimming Pool Woes
Doesn't your salt chlorinator control box have a meter on it. Those that I've seen do and tell you if your chlorine production is Normal (green) Low (yellow) or Over 6% (red). This type device you'll need in the long run to keep things balanced and to know when to put in more salt.
The pool we have, we initially used 10 x 50KG bags for 93,000 liters and that was too much, it should have been about 6-8. On the internet there is a formula for how much salt should be added depending upon your water volume. I'll look for it later and post if found.
When you first put in the salt you should also put in about 2 gallons of acid at the same time, and more if the green doesn't dissipate within a week. We were told that the addition of the acid is a crucial step when you first convert the pool to salt.
It takes a while for all to take hold. To get a salt pool up to the proper chlorine levels is much longer than when you just put in liquid or powder chlorine.
I've never seen a separate handheld salt concentration tester but hopefully you can find one down there if you don't have the aforementioned built in meter. Pete
The pool we have, we initially used 10 x 50KG bags for 93,000 liters and that was too much, it should have been about 6-8. On the internet there is a formula for how much salt should be added depending upon your water volume. I'll look for it later and post if found.
When you first put in the salt you should also put in about 2 gallons of acid at the same time, and more if the green doesn't dissipate within a week. We were told that the addition of the acid is a crucial step when you first convert the pool to salt.
It takes a while for all to take hold. To get a salt pool up to the proper chlorine levels is much longer than when you just put in liquid or powder chlorine.
I've never seen a separate handheld salt concentration tester but hopefully you can find one down there if you don't have the aforementioned built in meter. Pete
Governments are instituted among Men, deriving their just powers from the consent of the governed. Source
Forgot to mention, if you vacuum to waste, you are going to lose a lot of water each time. You'll lose much less if you always vacuum to the filter then do a backwash when finished. A good backwash will get rid of any dirt and algae in there. Pete
Governments are instituted among Men, deriving their just powers from the consent of the governed. Source
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Randy Cornhole
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OK, here's two points of reference out of many on the internet. The second indicates 20 lbs. of salt per 1,000 gallons of water.
What I also forgot in the above replies is that in the beginning you have to run your filter almost constantly for about a week, not just the normal 3 hours in the morning and 3 in the evening. Pete
http://phoenix.about.com/cs/wet/a/saltpool01.htm
http://reviews.ebay.com/What-is-a-salt- ... 0001527511
What I also forgot in the above replies is that in the beginning you have to run your filter almost constantly for about a week, not just the normal 3 hours in the morning and 3 in the evening. Pete
http://phoenix.about.com/cs/wet/a/saltpool01.htm
http://reviews.ebay.com/What-is-a-salt- ... 0001527511
Governments are instituted among Men, deriving their just powers from the consent of the governed. Source
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David Nears
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Dear Mr. Plum,
The best way to test the water for salt is actually to rinse and spit. You mouth will be able to sense the correct amount. I know sounds nuts but is the most effective way as even equipment gives false readings. It should taste of salt but not too strong.
The problem essentially is not the amount of salt. The problem with algae is caused by the lack of chlorine.
The salt is converted to chlorine. So even if you have salt the chlorinator may not be working.
They should not add floc to the pool unless it is a compound or mineral problem that needs to be remvoved.
Suggest
Taste the water if salty the chlorinator is not working properly or the system is running to short a time or it is on a low production setting. The production can be adjusted to a percentage of the time the pump is running.
You should also add algaecide and trichlor to the pool on a monthly basis.
The best way to test the water for salt is actually to rinse and spit. You mouth will be able to sense the correct amount. I know sounds nuts but is the most effective way as even equipment gives false readings. It should taste of salt but not too strong.
The problem essentially is not the amount of salt. The problem with algae is caused by the lack of chlorine.
The salt is converted to chlorine. So even if you have salt the chlorinator may not be working.
They should not add floc to the pool unless it is a compound or mineral problem that needs to be remvoved.
Suggest
Taste the water if salty the chlorinator is not working properly or the system is running to short a time or it is on a low production setting. The production can be adjusted to a percentage of the time the pump is running.
You should also add algaecide and trichlor to the pool on a monthly basis.
Try taking a bottle of the water to Chris at GDL .I am sure he would analyze it for you and advise what is required .Take a photograph of the chlorinator as well if clear plastic type .He will then be able to see if the electrodes are furred .Take the sample straight to the shop rather than leave it standing for a while as the chlorine level will change over time .Or just call them out .
Crazy 88
Crazy 88
Just to answer a couple of questions...
The salt cell has been thoroughly cleaned and tested and is making chlorine. It has been running on the maximum setting (100%) for two weeks. The reading is -100 in red letters while two green lights indicate all is well. Perhaps the 100 is actually good and I'm mistaken? The pump has been running about 10 hours per day.
I have added algaecide sufficient for the whole pool to stop any more algae forming and will be vacuuming tomorrow.
I will act on the tip about taking a sample to be tested.
Many thanks to all.
Who do I buy the chemicals from? GDL has been suggested.
The salt cell has been thoroughly cleaned and tested and is making chlorine. It has been running on the maximum setting (100%) for two weeks. The reading is -100 in red letters while two green lights indicate all is well. Perhaps the 100 is actually good and I'm mistaken? The pump has been running about 10 hours per day.
I have added algaecide sufficient for the whole pool to stop any more algae forming and will be vacuuming tomorrow.
I will act on the tip about taking a sample to be tested.
Many thanks to all.
Who do I buy the chemicals from? GDL has been suggested.
Different system than what I have here so sorry can't explain your readings.MrPlum wrote:Just to answer a couple of questions...
The salt cell has been thoroughly cleaned and tested and is making chlorine. It has been running on the maximum setting (100%) for two weeks. The reading is -100 in red letters while two green lights indicate all is well. Perhaps the 100 is actually good and I'm mistaken? The pump has been running about 10 hours per day.
I have added algaecide sufficient for the whole pool to stop any more algae forming and will be vacuuming tomorrow.
I will act on the tip about taking a sample to be tested.
Many thanks to all.
Who do I buy the chemicals from? GDL has been suggested.
I do know that when chlorine from salt breaks down, it changes back into salt again in your water. Thus the importance to keep as much original water in there as possible when cleaning/backwashing, avoiding the need to introduce vast quantities of fresh water that will dilute everything.
That's the problem I had last rainy season and decided to go back to regular powder chlorine. I had to pump so much excess water out of the pool, or it overflowed naturally during storms, I lost all balance and salt content.
Pete Governments are instituted among Men, deriving their just powers from the consent of the governed. Source
Another thought if someone else confirms your readings are screwy. I have a friend with the same salt system I have, and the installers hooked up the wires incorrectly. It said it was making chlorine but it wasn't. If all else fails, check the way the system was installed and wired up. Pete
Governments are instituted among Men, deriving their just powers from the consent of the governed. Source
MrP,
Daft question but I take it you do not have a system with a LCD control panel ? They have a salt indicator that lets you know when salt is low.
Have you/they been checking the pH levels ? should be around 7.3 - 7.8 from memory. I gave up attempting to clean my pool as could not get the pH levels right and if the water chemistry is not correct chlorine will not come into the equation, ie: the water will get murky anyway chlorine or not.
Another thing I've noticed is on a lot of pools the equipment simply does not give the pool enough chlorine (maybe they undersize the chlorinator cells or something), the reason I think this is they throw in handfuls of chlorine powder stuff every now and then to give it a boost.
Also your 10 hours running time wants to be out of sunlight hours, otherwise sun can burn off some of the fresh chlorine that's just been pumped in near the surface.
Apologies if you know or are already doing the above.
SJ
Daft question but I take it you do not have a system with a LCD control panel ? They have a salt indicator that lets you know when salt is low.
Have you/they been checking the pH levels ? should be around 7.3 - 7.8 from memory. I gave up attempting to clean my pool as could not get the pH levels right and if the water chemistry is not correct chlorine will not come into the equation, ie: the water will get murky anyway chlorine or not.
Another thing I've noticed is on a lot of pools the equipment simply does not give the pool enough chlorine (maybe they undersize the chlorinator cells or something), the reason I think this is they throw in handfuls of chlorine powder stuff every now and then to give it a boost.
Also your 10 hours running time wants to be out of sunlight hours, otherwise sun can burn off some of the fresh chlorine that's just been pumped in near the surface.
Apologies if you know or are already doing the above.
SJ
Spot on. This is where the acid comes into play to balance everything. PH is alkalinity/acidity. With a salt pool you are always going to be high on the alkalinity side and really never have to add soda ash at all. However, you may use quite a bit of acid monthly to keep the pH in proper range.Super Joe wrote:Have you/they been checking the pH levels ? should be around 7.3 - 7.8 from memory. I gave up attempting to clean my pool as could not get the pH levels right and if the water chemistry is not correct chlorine will not come into the equation, ie: the water will get murky anyway chlorine or not.SJ
This statement may be nuts, but I had times when chlorine readings during manual testing (tube/5 drops) were very low to nonexistent. My pH was also showing to add acid. I added the acid and no chlorine but the chlorine readings came back to normal after adding the acid. I haven't researched why that happened or if normal. Pete
Governments are instituted among Men, deriving their just powers from the consent of the governed. Source
Mr plum I had the same problem with accurate testing of salt ( taste and spit!!?). I purchased a total disolved solids tester ( TDS meter) via ebay in the UK. I calibrated it using the water used to fill the pool and adding the correct amount of salt. It is very easy to use just dip into the pool and instant reading. PM me if you wish to borrow it. I also bought an electronic ph tester at the same time both cost less than 20 quid.
no more dePreston