Singer machine oil
Singer machine oil
Does anyone have any idea where to buy some?
There are a few very small spots of rust appearing on the metal shafts of my golf irons and I've been advised to use a little of the above to prevent further deterioration. The oil should be light.
There are a few very small spots of rust appearing on the metal shafts of my golf irons and I've been advised to use a little of the above to prevent further deterioration. The oil should be light.
Re: Singer machine oil
Mrs. LP just bought a sewing machine from what I believe is HH's only genuine sewing machine shop. It is on Petchakasem on your left side going north, near the Sumthavin school (and a 7/11), I'd say approx a mile from the clock tower (give or take a few yards). Look carefully, it's an open storefront and it doesn't look much from the outside. They have the oil.lomuamart wrote:Does anyone have any idea where to buy some?
There are a few very small spots of rust appearing on the metal shafts of my golf irons and I've been advised to use a little of the above to prevent further deterioration. The oil should be light.

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Re: Singer machine oil
OK, brilliant. Is that south of Somtawin on the west side? I'm guessing it must be as I live up that way.
Re: Singer machine oil
Yes!lomuamart wrote:OK, brilliant. Is that south of Somtawin on the west side? I'm guessing it must be as I live up that way.
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Re: Singer machine oil
I would think that sewing machine oil would thicken and become sticky in this heat. For a light oil try WD 40, available at Home pro. Google it and find 2000+ uses.
We used to use it liberaly daily, on the Hawk aircraft wings and fuselage, at RAF Valley to prevent corrosion from the salt air. Not a pleasant smell in summer when used in those amounts, it is basicly made of a fish oil with a lot of additives although Wiki disputes this. When applied in small amounts to a golf club using aerosol and a rag to rub it in it should do the job.
Chas
We used to use it liberaly daily, on the Hawk aircraft wings and fuselage, at RAF Valley to prevent corrosion from the salt air. Not a pleasant smell in summer when used in those amounts, it is basicly made of a fish oil with a lot of additives although Wiki disputes this. When applied in small amounts to a golf club using aerosol and a rag to rub it in it should do the job.
Chas
Re: Singer machine oil
Another tip is to get the initial rust off, then apply a coating of New Finish silicon car polish. Available at Tesco and elsewhere here, but expensive, about 1,400 per bottle, but one bottle will last you a very long time. I've used it in areas where I've lived near the sea for ceiling fans, stove tops, outdoor light fixtures and everything in between. One application about every six months will do the trick. Pete 

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Re: Singer machine oil
↑ Sorry, the product I'm refering to above is sold as "Nu Finish", Not New Finish. Pete 

Governments are instituted among Men, deriving their just powers from the consent of the governed. Source
Re: Singer machine oil
they sell singer oil in most of the market type shops,just past talk of the town (bar) and in pirriporn market big hardware shed on the klang road heading towards immigration
Re: Singer machine oil
Nothing wrong with WD 40, but it is definitely not fish oil based. It is a hydrocarbon based mixture with some other chemicals.chaspul wrote:I would think that sewing machine oil would thicken and become sticky in this heat. For a light oil try WD 40, available at Home pro. Google it and find 2000+ uses.
We used to use it liberaly daily, on the Hawk aircraft wings and fuselage, at RAF Valley to prevent corrosion from the salt air. Not a pleasant smell in summer when used in those amounts, it is basicly made of a fish oil with a lot of additives although Wiki disputes this. When applied in small amounts to a golf club using aerosol and a rag to rub it in it should do the job.Chas
Also cannot agree that sewing machine oil would thicken, it will in fact become thinner with an increase in temperature.
http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/ms ... 328697.pdf
What ever you use, it is important to first remove any traces of existing corrosion, either mechanically with a mild abrasive, or chemically if deeply embedded.
Once clean silicon is a good option,and it is also available in small pressure packs like
WD 40.

May you be in heaven half an hour before the devil know`s you`re dead!
Re: Singer machine oil
Righty O.
Thanks for the tips. I'll see how things go once I decide what to try first. I've had this problem before with steel shafted clubs over here. Once the rain and humidity get to them they can spoil very quickly. I was also daft by not removing them from my bag after it rained while playing a while ago. They were only in there, uncleaned, for a couple of fays but that's when the rust started appearing. It really is very minor at the moment but hopefully I can nip it in the bud.
Thanks for the tips. I'll see how things go once I decide what to try first. I've had this problem before with steel shafted clubs over here. Once the rain and humidity get to them they can spoil very quickly. I was also daft by not removing them from my bag after it rained while playing a while ago. They were only in there, uncleaned, for a couple of fays but that's when the rust started appearing. It really is very minor at the moment but hopefully I can nip it in the bud.
Re: Singer machine oil
Hoping for a bit more advice.
I've gone for the Singer machine oil first as it was recommended by a pro but I'm not exactly sure what to do with it. Yeah, I'm not very practical. They had a couple of oils in the shop that LP suggested and I've gone for the multi-purpose variety rather than industrial that I also saw.
Nereus has emphasised how important it is to get any rust off the shafts before applying anything. These really are small spots and some come off easily with a fingernail. However, I've got no idea about removing the rust mechanically or with abrasive. What abrasive should be used?
Once I've done that, it'll be time to apply the oil. This might sound stupid but I assume I apply it lightly with a cloth, maybe leave for a while and then wipe off? Would that be correct? I can't imagine playing any shots with machine oil flying off the club.
Any guidance appreciated.
I've gone for the Singer machine oil first as it was recommended by a pro but I'm not exactly sure what to do with it. Yeah, I'm not very practical. They had a couple of oils in the shop that LP suggested and I've gone for the multi-purpose variety rather than industrial that I also saw.
Nereus has emphasised how important it is to get any rust off the shafts before applying anything. These really are small spots and some come off easily with a fingernail. However, I've got no idea about removing the rust mechanically or with abrasive. What abrasive should be used?
Once I've done that, it'll be time to apply the oil. This might sound stupid but I assume I apply it lightly with a cloth, maybe leave for a while and then wipe off? Would that be correct? I can't imagine playing any shots with machine oil flying off the club.
Any guidance appreciated.
Re: Singer machine oil
If it is just surface corrosion a domestic scouring pad may be enough. Failing that next up would be very fine grade emery paper. Start with something that is not too abrasive, as you do not want to scratch deep marks into the shaft.
Yes, put it on with a small piece of rag, just a smear as all you are trying to do is exclude the air. It goes without say I suppose, but keep it off the grip. I am not a golfer, but am a bit surprised that the shafts are not chrome plated. Probably a very good reason why they are not.
I still believe silicon spray would be a better option, as not as prone to dripping off, or getting on to the grip. If you could find some, gun oil would be good also, but probably hard to find, and it would still be similar to what you have as far as applying it goes.
Yes, put it on with a small piece of rag, just a smear as all you are trying to do is exclude the air. It goes without say I suppose, but keep it off the grip. I am not a golfer, but am a bit surprised that the shafts are not chrome plated. Probably a very good reason why they are not.
I still believe silicon spray would be a better option, as not as prone to dripping off, or getting on to the grip. If you could find some, gun oil would be good also, but probably hard to find, and it would still be similar to what you have as far as applying it goes.

May you be in heaven half an hour before the devil know`s you`re dead!
Re: Singer machine oil
For those who may be interested, I went for the oil this afternoon. Just a smidgen with a dry cloth that I worked in well.
Would reckon that 70% of the little rust spots have disappeared already and the clubs look a bit shiny!!
I'll leave the oil to soak in overnight and give them another go tomorrow. They're the right way up so no danger to the grips that I'm going to replace soon anyway.
It was a light oil and whilst not exactly evaporating when on the cloth it wasn't viscous - if that's the right word.
A bit of elbow grease and more to come with constant attention afterwards and hopefully the potential problem will have been sorted out.
I know I havn't sealed anything but I'm generally good with the club cleaning so at the moment I don't see that as being necessary. Maybe later?
Anyway, 25 THB for the oil which will last for a while seems a lot better than new shafts that could set me back a hell of a lot more.
Would reckon that 70% of the little rust spots have disappeared already and the clubs look a bit shiny!!
I'll leave the oil to soak in overnight and give them another go tomorrow. They're the right way up so no danger to the grips that I'm going to replace soon anyway.
It was a light oil and whilst not exactly evaporating when on the cloth it wasn't viscous - if that's the right word.
A bit of elbow grease and more to come with constant attention afterwards and hopefully the potential problem will have been sorted out.
I know I havn't sealed anything but I'm generally good with the club cleaning so at the moment I don't see that as being necessary. Maybe later?
Anyway, 25 THB for the oil which will last for a while seems a lot better than new shafts that could set me back a hell of a lot more.
Re: Singer machine oil
A bit late, but just saw this in Villa Market
Re: Singer machine oil
Yes. That's the one I've got.
Over a period of time, it really does freshen the shafts up.
Good to know the oil is at VM as well.
Over a period of time, it really does freshen the shafts up.
Good to know the oil is at VM as well.